Salut de Schiaparelli (Repost)

my Salut de Schiaparelli eau de parfum, presumably, from 1939 Salut de Schiaparelli eau de parfum, from 1939

Salut de Schiaparelli was launched by Schiaparelli in 1934.  It was supposedly intended for young women but like many children’s shows, there are themes clearly intended for a more mature audience.

Salut (Schiaparelli 1934) is intoxicatingly attractive, although I wouldn’t call it a warm or enveloping fragrance. Instead it is reigned by an earthy yet urbane lily-of-the-valley (a more sophisticated and green Muguet Des Bois lily-of-the-valley) surrounded by a mysterious darkness.  An ad from 1939 claims that, “…a whole flower garden emerges from white petals set against a blue satin background.”  However, again, to my nose the “blue satin background” is more of a dense, slightly dangerous, but lovely and almost inviting, dark, damp fog.  I’m not usually a fan of lily-of-the-valley perfumes, but this one is complex and quite ingratiating.

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Eventually during the drydown the strong lily-of-the-valley merges with the darkness (or blue satin) and the overall effect becomes very light, bright and almost angelic.  It keeps becoming softer as time progresses.

Not much can be found about Salut online, it was supposedly discontinued after only twenty years on the market (in 1954), but according to a website devoted to Schiaparelli perfumes, they believe the top notes are: aldehydes, citrus, citronella, geranium and possibly hyssop.  Middle notes are: lily-of-the-valley, jasmine, ylang ylang, neroli, gardenia, narcissus, hyacinth, and tuberose.  And, base notes are: sandalwood, oakmoss, vetiver, and benzoin. I think I can also detect rose, musk, bergamot and maybe even a little of opoponax…

“S” for Schiaparelli

Given the stressful nature of this week for me, there was something nice about the somewhat somber, but very pretty lily-of-the-valley meets late Art Deco aldehydic sophistication in Salut.  I hope this weekend provides a further respite from it all…

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