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As I often say at moments like this, “Here is a 1960’s green floral aldehyde.” (D’Orsay 1935 & 1960’s). And of course that commentary often elicits questions like, “What do you mean by 1960’s green floral?” Good question. Well… I wish I knew more about the history of the perfume enough to know the exact…

Abano

When I first tried Abano (Prince Matchabelli 1931) I wasn’t expecting something so perfect for today. Today is a cool day in early October. But you see, Abano has a mix of lavender, oak moss and patchouli. The lavender is calming. The oak moss is uplifting. The patchouli feels oh so appropriate for an autumn…

Vega (original 1936)

Like a sultry, honey-drenched version of Liu, Guerlain Vega (original formulation Guerlain 1936) opens with Guerlain aldehydes and warm florals. Bergamot adds a faint, demure, ladylike edge. Orange blossom a definite soapiness. And sweet, gentle, woody iris is the floral from the bouquet that eventually wins on my skin. Although, smoky jasmine, rose and lush…

En Avion

This sample of the vintage wonderfully displays this grand old dame’s saucy, totally sassy, and spicy floral heart, with particular emphasis on carnation (I also detect a very subtle lilac) (Caron 1932). Actually, I could easily see 1930’s or 40’s Katherine Hepburn in perfectly tailored pants wearing this one… En Avion has a lot of…

Vacances

Lilac! Green (galbanum), fresh, sublime and totally elegant lilac (Jean Patou 1936). I am in love with this fragrance. It’s a woody lilac too. It’s just fantastic. 😍 With a somewhat delicate and perfectly paired musk at the base. This is now at the top of my list for a larger bottle. Top notes: hyacinth…

Normandie

This beauty (Jean Patou 1935) opens with an exquisite orange blossom and neroli. They’re slightly green and very creamy, gentle and pleasant. But then, as it continues, all the warm, richly hued carnation, jasmine and musk emerge. Actually, it’s one of the most noticeable progressions I’ve encountered and it’s lovely. Also, Normandie has one of…

Colony

For whatever reason I picture a 1930’s southern gentleman in a straw hat with patent leather shoes and rolled up khaki pants when I smell this. This fragrance is so unisex. The vetiver and leather arelike a manly tonic that play perfectly against the carnation and iris. And then there’s pineapple. Really though, if I…

Divine Folie

When I first smelled this one my reaction was, “Wow.” 😶 I’m not sure if reincarnation is possible but if it is I’d bet I wore this (and a few others) in a past life… I love this fragrance (Jean Patou 1933). How ironic the name is… The orris root is intoxicating in this one….

Cocktail

Fruity!! Oh my, how this one is fruity… But it’s in this delicate, sensual, honeysuckle sweet, jasmine-kissed, utterly vintage way. It’s very aptly named (Jean Patou 1930). Imagine the best, most talented bartender of the 1930’s mixing up a cocktail in Havana and you’ve almost got it… Again, it’s a cigarette smoke tinged fragrance, but…

Shanghai 

Shanghai (Lenthéric 1911 and 1936) is a sweet, beautifully powdery citrus at the opening. But there’s also a spicy, herbal quality. Neroli is glazed. Lavender and rose are very cheerful. And a gentle, amber tinged styrax plays very well with the aldehydes. Intriguingly it’s almost too sweet for a hot summer day but only almost…