Fleur de Feu

This magical beauty is very animalic on my skin (Guerlain 1948 and recreated but *not* reformulated in 2014). Of course, that’s despite a noticeable amount of aldehydes and what, for me, are a prominent lily-of-the-valley and rose (not carnation as I’ve read in other reviews 🤗🤔🤗 – I smell the carnation *much* more when sprayed…

L’Heure Attendue

When I tried to create my own fragrance a few years ago I think this is what I was trying to make… Except, I like this *a lot* better. And that’s an understatement. 😂 Oh dear… Anyway, citrusy, aldehydic lily-of-the-valley mixes with rose and other florals (perhaps hyacinth and lilac?) and sparkles (Jean Patou 1946)….

Potpourri 

With an opening that’s intensely spicy, warm and sweet, Potpourri (Prince Matchabelli 1940) is beautifully vintage. To my nose this is mostly a polite but not at all boring violet, ylang ylang, hyacinth, cloves and rich musk scent… Although a woody benzoin is one of those sort of notes that is dominant, but so very…

Aqua Di Selva 

Lemon. Fresh, uplifting pine embraces lemon opens this classic gem (Visconti di Modrone 1949).  Then lavender and bergamot arrive in a gentlemanly flourish. This extraordinarily pristine and airy scent is the sort of fragrance one wants to smell wafting from a man with perfectly starched and impeccably tailored shirts. It’s so crystal clear and pine…

Woodhue

Super musky citrus starts Woodhue (Fabergé 1944).  Then green jasmine, a rich sandalwood and classic mix of vanilla and cedar warm on the skin to create a spicy grace. It’s a manly scent with pipe tobacco-like sweetness and earthy, woody depth.  And the drydown is rather epic…   Top notes: orange, bergamot and citrus. Middle…

Diorama 

Vintage Diorama (Dior 1948) opens with a peach sweet, slightly spiced green violet. Carnation, clove and tuberose mix beautifully. While civetta, castoreum and musk are present they’re surprisingly demure. The leather is also relatively subtle. And although geranium isn’t listed, I keep interpreting some combination of notes as that particular floral… Diorama is woody with…

Fracas 

I was overwhelmed when I first tested Fracas (Robert Piguet 1948)… The gardenia note is wild. It reminds me slightly of the gardenia in Tuvaché, Jungle Gardenia, which is by far the most bold gardenia note I’ve ever encountered. However, I also noted a luscious lilac, quiet bergamot, direct tuberose, quiet (by comparison) jasmine, noteable…

Antilope

Antilope (Weil 1946) opens with Neroli and aldehydes. And then there’s this intoxicating, soft, lush herbal rose. It’s a rose accompanied by gentle florals like violet, and a misty jasmine, and carnation. There’s spicy patchouli, a sandalwood warmth, airy oakmoss and a tender clary sage. Sweet, almost sugary musk, tonka bean and amber are reminiscent…

Symbole 

Bright, beautiful tea-like green notes and gorgeous florals are flanked by truly smoky aldehydes and spice at the beginning of Symbole (Dana 1946).  It’s a robust chypre with definite styrax, rose, musk, and vetiver. The unique thing about Symbole however, is that it’s not particularly weighed down despite its depth. It’s an almost fun scent…

Ma Griffe

Woody and damp aldehydes gradually lace a crisp lemon and pristine clary sage. Green florals mix with warm orris root in Ma Griffe (Carven 1946).   Lily-of-the-valley and lemon seem to be great friends into earliest moments of the drydown.  And, given the supple, ever so slightly spicy and gracious base notes, which include styrax,…