The vintage version of Vetiver (Guerlain 1959) is my favorite. With its genuinely fruity lemon and spicy vetiver aromatically swirling around the wearer at the start before calming to a gentle, heavenly and crisp citrusy vetiver scent laced with what smells like the remains of pipe tobacco from decades long past. And of course, it’s clearly a Guerlain, which is always a great thing.
Top note: lemon. Middle notes: tobacco and vetiver. Base notes: nutmeg, tobacco and pepper.
Nose: Jean-Paul Guerlain
This vintage chypre is very earthy, green and musky (Studio Girl Hollywood 50’s or 60’s?). To be honest, it’s one of those sort of vintage fragrances you don’t necessarily wear but it’s fun to have. There’s something a little funky about it and while I think it could be layered it’d be hard for even me (who loves vintage fragrance) to truly use it. Or maybe if just the right person found it they’d enjoy it? At any rate it’s still novel.
Gin Fizz (Lubin 1955 & 2009) opens with one of the most lovely citrus openings I’ve ever encountered. The Sicilian Lemon mixes wonderfully with fresh juniper berry. It’s bright, fresh and yet perfectly sweet… And while rose and jasmine are present iris takes a very elegant and central place in this fragrance. Gin Fizz is green in a way slightly reminiscent of vintage Estée Lauder Private Collection – a fragrance supposedly worn by Grace Kelly, who inspired this Lubin gem. It’s rare that I buy current formulations, but this is one I’ll have to someday acquire!
Top notes: bergamot, Sicilian lemon, juniper berry, and Messina mandarin. Middle notes: iris, galbanum, orange blossom, rose absolute, and Turkish jasmine. Base notes: Florentine iris, vetiver, white musk, oak moss, swamp lily and benzoin.
Nose: Henri Giboulet
A spicy orris mixes with florals and oakmoss right at the outset of Stradivari (Prince Matchabelli 1950)… This bold, sensual and intoxicating scent is both demure and alluring all at once. Perfect for day and yet so frothy and rich that it hints constantly at dim warm lights and mysterious shadows. It’s a great example of a smoky, leathery and yet prim green, woody floral that kept all hidden and lovely… However, the caveat should be noted that only in spring, very early summer, fall or winter weather could this contradiction happen… I imagine in hot weather Stradivari could only really fit the moment at night. At any rate, it’s a bit sublime.
Although Krigler is a very luxurious, and respectable house I’m afraid Lovely Patchouli 55 (Krigler 1955) is not exactly… what I expected. It’s very sweet, and there’s something almost abrasive about the way it plays with my chemistry. It’s also tart. The notes mix together into a loud patchouli and then collectively punch one in the nose. I would not say it is pretty… or handsome. And, while the drydown improves it, it doesn’t alter it entirely.
Notes: bergamot, leather, amber and patchouli.
Vintage Diorissimo (Dior 1956) is lily-of-the-valley done to perfection. It’s strong, very elegant and combined with a fresh, authentic lilac that blossoms as the scent progresses, it’s also wildly romantic. Diorissimo is an exquisite floral fragrance that is infinitely springlike, with a chilled glamour. Even for someone who may never particularly like muguet it’s hard to truly deny the genuine loveliness of Diorissimo…
Top notes: bergamot and green leaves. Middle notes: boronia, jasmine, lilac, lily, Rosemary, Amaryllis, ylang-ylang, and lily-of-the-valley. Base notes: civet and sandalwood.
Beautiful, airy, floral and sweet Winks No. 96 by Winkelman’s is a friendly and yet refined fragrance. It’s very ladylike with likely notes of carnation, rose, jasmine, and benzoin. No. 96 is light. A lily of the valley note and perhaps iris, musk and vetiver create an optimistic very 1950’s scent, most likely best worn with pastel fabric and pearls. No. 96 is also a little powdery in the dry down…
*Winkelman’s was a store in Detroit, Michigan that started in the 1920’s and seems to have ceased to exist in the 90’s…
According to a review on Parfumo.net, Dreamy by Luzier of Kansas City had white floral top notes and the reviewer believes they can detect, patchouli, cedarwood, benzoin and perhaps amber from the juice of their vintage bottle. I can also smell benzoin, patchouli and cedarwood but there’s also the presense of aldehydes, and perhaps styrax. And, I can also detect those faint, soapy white floral top notes along with a definite honeylike sweetness, particularly into the drydown. Dreamy actually reminds me a great bit of vintage Arpege by Lanvin and a little of Bourjois Mais Oui. Dreamy is a warm, sweet, pretty scent…
A warm, very bright tarragon and other spices (?), makes Vivace (Revillon) almost pungent in its floral charm. This is not a fragrance for the faint of heart. This is a very green chypre; quite earthy, almost bitter with an animalic pop of scent perfect for a cool day.
I can’t find an exact date of release for Vivace (or much information at all) but I would place it in the 1960’s if I were to hazard a guess… Purely for its uniqueness I may look for more. I imagine it would pair well with a lot of fragrances and add a ton of interest and zeal.
Baghari (Robert Piguet 1950) is bold, sensuous neroli, iris, bergamot and aldehydes in the opening. Baghari is embracing and sultry. And, in the drydown musk and eventually a clear vintage vetiver is found. It’s a very memorable fragrance….
Top notes are aldehydes, bergamot and neroli; middle notes are bulgarian rose, jasmine, iris and violet; base notes are amber, vanilla, musk and vetiver.
It was a particularly busy day yesterday… We’re getting ready to leave on Sunday and there’s been a few errands to run, things to organize, clean etc. before we go. I feel a mixture of both calmness and exhilaration admist the sadness I’ve already mentioned (hopefully not too often). And, meanwhile, our son is growing by leaps and bounds everyday… Tonight will hopefully be a time to wander around St. Paul a bit before we go.
Until later… 🙂