Madame Rochas (1960)

The aldehydes in vintage Madame Rochas remind me of those in vintage White Linen. They’re crisp, green, and a bit spicy. Very clean! (And they’re both floral aldehydes) But, the orris root, vetiver, and oakmoss really stand out (to my nose) to a large degree in vintage Madame Rochas. The florals are tender and they…

Chant D’ Arômes

This is a chypre at its best. Vintage green florals are slightly sweet but far from being cloying or shrill. This Guerlain (Guerlain 1962) is like a walk through a blooming garden on a rainy day – earthy, dense, and grounded but with a musky, mysterious beauty. And although it is the first day of…

Vega (original 1936)

Like a sultry, honey-drenched version of Liu, Guerlain Vega (original formulation Guerlain 1936) opens with Guerlain aldehydes and warm florals. Bergamot adds a faint, demure, ladylike edge. Orange blossom a definite soapiness. And sweet, gentle, woody iris is the floral from the bouquet that eventually wins on my skin. Although, smoky jasmine, rose and lush…

Calandre

If I had known how much I’d like this one (Paco Rabanne 1969) I would have started with a full sized bottle. It reminds me slightly of Chamade and Coriandre, which is a very good thing. It’s very green, floral, spicy and a bit warm. And it’s the sort of fragrance where the florals are…

Câline

The opening of Câline is beautiful (Jean Patou 1964). Truly lovely. Then it flows into a burst of aldehydic, green, typically 1960’s charm. Think Chamade, Miss Balmain, and Fidji. But frankly, I think this is one of the most elegant of this genre… It’s a pastel scent and the pretty, ladylike florals are powdery but…

Que Sera

This vintage chypre is very earthy, green and musky (Studio Girl Hollywood 50’s or 60’s?). To be honest, it’s one of those sort of vintage fragrances you don’t necessarily wear but it’s fun to have. There’s something a little funky about it and while I think it could be layered it’d be hard for even…

Diorling 

Diorling (Dior 1963) opens to the smell of sharp green fresh cut flowers flanked by spicy, damp patchouli and subtle leather. It’s crisp, but powdery… with a particularly pretty iris. Very much a 60’s green scent it reminds me a little bit of both Miss Balmain and Chamade but with the sparkling loveliness of L’Interdit,…

Calèche 

Calèche (Hermès 1961) opens with one of the most beautiful orange blossom arrangements I’ve ever encountered. The perfect woody citrus, neroli and aldehydes compliment the orange blossom to an almost tragically lovely degree – like a singularly pretty spring day. Into the drydown an herbal floral combination is prim but soothing and engaging. Intriguingly, on…

Bal à Versailles 

Sweet jasmine, neroli and cassia start Bal à Versailles (Jean Desprez 1962). Then a strong rose is flanked beautifully by warm orris root, a passionate and slightly airy patchouli and sandalwood. Ylang ylang is fruity and bright and a soft balsam, benzoin, musk and cedar bring a roundness and depth.   Nose: Jean Desprez  Top…

Estée

Elegant tuberose, spicy, fruity aldehydes and a bohemian ylang-ylang open Estée (Estée Lauder 1968).  It’s sweet and sharp – intensely green and shamelessly floral. Into the drydown a beautiful oakmoss and floral honey are flanked by woody styrax. Top notes: tuberose, coriander, aldehydes, raspberry, lily, peach, lemon and ylang-ylang.  Middle notes: honey, carnation, iris, orris root,…