Calandre

If I had known how much I’d like this one (Paco Rabanne 1969) I would have started with a full sized bottle. It reminds me slightly of Chamade and Coriandre, which is a very good thing. It’s very green, floral, spicy and a bit warm. And it’s the sort of fragrance where the florals are just dominant enough to make it “pretty” but are joyful and yet reserved enough for it to be ethereal and polite. There’s a really lovely jasmine, geranium, rose, orris, vetiver and oakmoss in particular.

Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot and green notes. Middle notes: orris root, jasmine, rose, lily-of-the-valley, geranium and hyacinth. Base notes: vetiver, oakmoss, musk, amber and sandalwood.

Câline

The opening of Câline is beautiful (Jean Patou 1964). Truly lovely. Then it flows into a burst of aldehydic, green, typically 1960’s charm. Think Chamade, Miss Balmain, and Fidji. But frankly, I think this is one of the most elegant of this genre… It’s a pastel scent and the pretty, ladylike florals are powdery but with a sensual muskiness and a slightly pungent moss, citrus and labdanum. It’s a chypre and it’s gorgeous… *Ahh* 😍

Top notes: mimosa, mandarin orange, basil, aldehydes, bergamot and neroli. Middle notes: rose, cyclamen, orris root, coriander, ginger, patchouli, ylang-ylang, African orange flower, jasmine and carnation. Base notes: musk, amber, Virginia cedar, oakmoss, French labdanum, and sandalwood.

Nose: Henri Giboulet

Que Sera


This vintage chypre is very earthy, green and musky (Studio Girl Hollywood 50’s or 60’s?). To be honest, it’s one of those sort of vintage fragrances you don’t necessarily wear but it’s fun to have. There’s something a little funky about it and while I think it could be layered it’d be hard for even me (who loves vintage fragrance) to truly use it. Or maybe if just the right person found it they’d enjoy it? At any rate it’s still novel. 

Diorling 


Diorling (Dior 1963) opens to the smell of sharp green fresh cut flowers flanked by spicy, damp patchouli and subtle leather. It’s crisp, but powdery… with a particularly pretty iris. Very much a 60’s green scent it reminds me a little bit of both Miss Balmain and Chamade but with the sparkling loveliness of L’Interdit, especially into the drydown.

Top notes: hyacinth and bergamot.  Middle notes: iris, jasmine, rose and lily-of-the-valley.  Base notes: vetiver, musk, patchouli, oak moss and leather.

Nose: Paul Vacher 

Calèche 

Calèche (Hermès 1961) opens with one of the most beautiful orange blossom arrangements I’ve ever encountered. The perfect woody citrus, neroli and aldehydes compliment the orange blossom to an almost tragically lovely degree – like a singularly pretty spring day. Into the drydown an herbal floral combination is prim but soothing and engaging. Intriguingly, on my skin the vintage oakmoss, vetiver, musk and cedar create a nearly spicy, animalic accord. And into the later drydown the lemon reemerges as a soft, powdery delight. This beauty is wild and free.

Nose: Guy Robert

Top notes: aldehydes, lemon, lime, mandarin orange, neroli, orange blossom and cypress.  Middle notes: ylang-ylang, rose, lily-of-the-valley, gardenia, iris and jasmine.  Base notes: cedar, oakmoss, vetiver, musk, amber, tonka bean and sandalwood. 

Bal à Versailles 

Sweet jasmine, neroli and cassia start Bal à Versailles (Jean Desprez 1962). Then a strong rose is flanked beautifully by warm orris root, a passionate and slightly airy patchouli and sandalwood. Ylang ylang is fruity and bright and a soft balsam, benzoin, musk and cedar bring a roundness and depth.  

Nose: Jean Desprez 

Top notes:  rosemary, orange blossom, mandarin orange, cassia, jasmine, rose, neroli, bergamot, bulgarian rose and lemon.  Middle notes:  sandalwood, patchouli, lilac, orris root, vetiver, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley and leather.  Base notes: tolu balsam, amber, musk, benzoin, civet, vanilla, cedar and resins.

Estée

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Elegant tuberose, spicy, fruity aldehydes and a bohemian ylang-ylang open Estée (Estée Lauder 1968).  It’s sweet and sharp – intensely green and shamelessly floral. Into the drydown a beautiful oakmoss and floral honey are flanked by woody styrax.

Top notes: tuberose, coriander, aldehydes, raspberry, lily, peach, lemon and ylang-ylang.  Middle notes: honey, carnation, iris, orris root, jasmine, rose and lily-of-the-valley.  Base notes: styrax, cedar, oakmoss and sandalwood.  

 

Clandestin

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This mysterious (I can’t find a thing about it anywhere) 60’s green, floral chypre is funky.  Clandestin is daring and in command.  My guess is that with a definite note of both jasmine and orange blossom it was intended for women but I would be more apt to categorize it as very unisex…  Actually, it’s the sort of fragrance I could see either the female or male lead in a late 1960’s spy film wearing well.  In fact, it’s uncanny how perfectly named Clandestin is.

 

Vivace

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A warm, very bright tarragon and other spices (?), makes Vivace (Revillon) almost pungent in its floral charm.  This is not a fragrance for the faint of heart.  This is a very green chypre; quite earthy, almost bitter with an animalic pop of scent perfect for a cool day.

I can’t find an exact date of release for Vivace (or much information at all) but I would place it in the 1960’s if I were to hazard a guess…   Purely for its uniqueness I may look for more.  I imagine it would pair well with a lot of fragrances and add a ton of interest and zeal.

Fidji

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Crisp, refined, green notes, with special emphasis on galbanum make Fidji (Guy Laroche 1966) sing. A breezy but grand jasmine, ylang-ylang, bergamot, and eventually gentle violet create heady olfactory beauty. Spicy carnation adds an extra sensuality to this vintage treasure.

Top notes: galbanum, hyacinth, lemon, and bergamot.  Middle notes: rose, jasmine, violet, ylang-ylang and carnation.  Base notes: musk, patchouli, sandal, amber, vetiver, and moss. 

I’ve been doing a lot of reflecting lately.  I’ve been reflecting on what it means to be authentically yourself…   It’s funny how so much of life is about that, or at least in my life it’s seems to be a theme.

I find the need to dress more like myself (as I’ve discussed), act more like myself, and perhaps potentially date someone maybe a bit more like me.  After a recent discussion with a close friend from childhood, I’ve realized that part of my problem with never finding my crushes overlapping with crushes on me is in part due to always going after guys who are quite different in some important way than me – personality, interests, etc.  Now, that’s not to say that differnces aren’t fascinating and mysterious but I think being able to understand “the other” on a deeper level is part of falling in love and that requires something profoundly similar perhaps.

So, to me, that begs the question of why I seem to have this tendency to figure out who I am and then pursue something different…   I know I love classic, elegant styles.  Why in the world have I generally (aside from cashmere sweaters, a coat and a nice purse) tried buying everything but that style since high school?  I don’t know…  But I’m guessing that it has something to do with being labeled boring in high school and constantly hearing the adages, “opposites attract” and “expand your horizons.”

But here’s the thing (speaking of clichés), if I’m not me who is else will be??

Have a nice rest of your Thursday or a start to your Friday. 🙂