This vintage chypre is very earthy, green and musky (Studio Girl Hollywood 50’s or 60’s?). To be honest, it’s one of those sort of vintage fragrances you don’t necessarily wear but it’s fun to have. There’s something a little funky about it and while I think it could be layered it’d be hard for even me (who loves vintage fragrance) to truly use it. Or maybe if just the right person found it they’d enjoy it? At any rate it’s still novel.
Diorling (Dior 1963) opens to the smell of sharp green fresh cut flowers flanked by spicy, damp patchouli and subtle leather. It’s crisp, but powdery… with a particularly pretty iris. Very much a 60’s green scent it reminds me a little bit of both Miss Balmain and Chamade but with the sparkling loveliness of L’Interdit, especially into the drydown.
Top notes: hyacinth and bergamot. Middle notes: iris, jasmine, rose and lily-of-the-valley. Base notes: vetiver, musk, patchouli, oak moss and leather.
Nose: Paul Vacher
Calèche (Hermès 1961) opens with one of the most beautiful orange blossom arrangements I’ve ever encountered. The perfect woody citrus, neroli and aldehydes compliment the orange blossom to an almost tragically lovely degree – like a singularly pretty spring day. Into the drydown an herbal floral combination is prim but soothing and engaging. Intriguingly, on my skin the vintage oakmoss, vetiver, musk and cedar create a nearly spicy, animalic accord. And into the later drydown the lemon reemerges as a soft, powdery delight. This beauty is wild and free.
Nose: Guy Robert
Top notes: aldehydes, lemon, lime, mandarin orange, neroli, orange blossom and cypress. Middle notes: ylang-ylang, rose, lily-of-the-valley, gardenia, iris and jasmine. Base notes: cedar, oakmoss, vetiver, musk, amber, tonka bean and sandalwood.
Sweet jasmine, neroli and cassia start Bal à Versailles (Jean Desprez 1962). Then a strong rose is flanked beautifully by warm orris root, a passionate and slightly airy patchouli and sandalwood. Ylang ylang is fruity and bright and a soft balsam, benzoin, musk and cedar bring a roundness and depth.
Nose: Jean Desprez
Top notes: rosemary, orange blossom, mandarin orange, cassia, jasmine, rose, neroli, bergamot, bulgarian rose and lemon. Middle notes: sandalwood, patchouli, lilac, orris root, vetiver, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley and leather. Base notes: tolu balsam, amber, musk, benzoin, civet, vanilla, cedar and resins.
Elegant tuberose, spicy, fruity aldehydes and a bohemian ylang-ylang open Estée (Estée Lauder 1968). It’s sweet and sharp – intensely green and shamelessly floral. Into the drydown a beautiful oakmoss and floral honey are flanked by woody styrax.
Top notes: tuberose, coriander, aldehydes, raspberry, lily, peach, lemon and ylang-ylang. Middle notes: honey, carnation, iris, orris root, jasmine, rose and lily-of-the-valley. Base notes: styrax, cedar, oakmoss and sandalwood.
This mysterious (I can’t find a thing about it anywhere) 60’s green, floral chypre is funky. Clandestin is daring and in command. My guess is that with a definite note of both jasmine and orange blossom it was intended for women but I would be more apt to categorize it as very unisex… Actually, it’s the sort of fragrance I could see either the female or male lead in a late 1960’s spy film wearing well. In fact, it’s uncanny how perfectly named Clandestin is.
A warm, very bright tarragon and other spices (?), makes Vivace (Revillon) almost pungent in its floral charm. This is not a fragrance for the faint of heart. This is a very green chypre; quite earthy, almost bitter with an animalic pop of scent perfect for a cool day.
I can’t find an exact date of release for Vivace (or much information at all) but I would place it in the 1960’s if I were to hazard a guess… Purely for its uniqueness I may look for more. I imagine it would pair well with a lot of fragrances and add a ton of interest and zeal.
Crisp, refined, green notes, with special emphasis on galbanum make Fidji (Guy Laroche 1966) sing. A breezy but grand jasmine, ylang-ylang, bergamot, and eventually gentle violet create heady olfactory beauty. Spicy carnation adds an extra sensuality to this vintage treasure.
Top notes: galbanum, hyacinth, lemon, and bergamot. Middle notes: rose, jasmine, violet, ylang-ylang and carnation. Base notes: musk, patchouli, sandal, amber, vetiver, and moss.
I’ve been doing a lot of reflecting lately. I’ve been reflecting on what it means to be authentically yourself… It’s funny how so much of life is about that, or at least in my life it’s seems to be a theme.
I find the need to dress more like myself (as I’ve discussed), act more like myself, and perhaps potentially date someone maybe a bit more like me. After a recent discussion with a close friend from childhood, I’ve realized that part of my problem with never finding my crushes overlapping with crushes on me is in part due to always going after guys who are quite different in some important way than me – personality, interests, etc. Now, that’s not to say that differnces aren’t fascinating and mysterious but I think being able to understand “the other” on a deeper level is part of falling in love and that requires something profoundly similar perhaps.
So, to me, that begs the question of why I seem to have this tendency to figure out who I am and then pursue something different… I know I love classic, elegant styles. Why in the world have I generally (aside from cashmere sweaters, a coat and a nice purse) tried buying everything but that style since high school? I don’t know… But I’m guessing that it has something to do with being labeled boring in high school and constantly hearing the adages, “opposites attract” and “expand your horizons.”
But here’s the thing (speaking of clichés), if I’m not me who is else will be??
Have a nice rest of your Thursday or a start to your Friday. 🙂
With a strong green aldehydic opening, Climat (Lancôme 1967 ) is vintage at the start. As it continues with lots of violet, a soft, warm peach and a poignant vetiver, amber, and bamboo it’s quite stunning. Then, this dramatic classic proceeds into a languid, gorgeous rosy glow. Really, from start to finish this fragrance transcends time, and remains charming – perfectly sweet and complex.
Top notes: violet, peach, jasmine, lily-, rosemary and tuberose. Base notes: sandalwood, tonka bean, amber, musk, civet, bamboo and vetiver.
We’ve completely cleared out of our place… It feels awful but I’m looking forward to moving on too in a way. I’m the sort of person who likes finishing things up more than a happy ending. It’s a weakness because I can be impatient and a little pessimistic at times but it’s a strength in that I prefer truth and growth no matter how bittersweet or almost entirely unpleasant.
Tomorrow we’re flying out… All of us (very busy toddler included). On a plane for at least three hours. That will be interesting… I’ve been too scared to do it before. 🙂
And on a rather gloomy/hostile note, I really don’t like most people right now. Sorry dear reader… I’ve never said or felt that to such a degree as I do right now. I’m sorry… I know it’s actually ridiculous (and I mean that), but lately I just keep seeing so many people act so… cold. So… almost heartless. So able to inflict pain on others for whatever reason…
Why do so many people hate the very vulnerability in themselves and others that makes them worth a shit? Now, I’m not saying that we should all walk around being a total hot mess all the time, but… what about emotional intelligence? What about love?
My whole life I’ve played nice. But, I’ve been bullied, etc. and I’ve had an enormous amount of nitwits think I’m too “cute” to have real feelings or actual intelligence. Ironically (maybe it’s not ironic?) my “cuteness” has never parlayed into romantic luck though… Only once did a guy (who was actually into women sexually) ever try very hard to pursue me beyond just trying to sleep with me (I’ve seen a fair amount of that). And that guy, sadly, was not someone I liked at all… dear soul. And no, my dear husband has never pursued me either. We are great friends though so that’s nice…
But anyway… the whole “cuteness” (what the hell does that mean anyway I often wonder) thing while pleasant enough in some ways has been ultimately seemingly less than pointless… It’s been a liability at times and because of it people expect my life to be something it’s painfully never come even marginally close to being. Oh and p.s. with all due respect to equality between the sexes, I firmly believe, if a guy doesn’t pursue you he’s probably “not that into you.” And actually, nevermind… because the same holds true for women too (not that I know from dating them but I am one so…) … if a lady doesn’t pursue you back she’s probably not that into you either.
Anyway, in any situation, most times I try to keep cool and be almost obnoxiously sweet to a. be truly loving because people need love and b. to piss off/annoy genuine assholes who just want to control people by getting to them. But after last night when some fool who considers himself a doctor (a neighbor to my mother) said my brilliant son who can read at two and four months (I’m not exaggerating and I started reading at two and a half) that he thought my son seemed “backward” and then partially retracted when he realized that my son is only two and not three or four like his height suggests… When that happened… It made me want to punch him in the fucking face. And, can you imagine how successful that would have been? Yeah… It’s actually funny. I’m such a wimp in that way… He probably would have just sneezed in response.
Right now, if reincarnation is real, I want to come back as a mosquito… A mosquito that lives supernaturally long in the bedroom of someone who really deserves it. 🙂
Hugs… because for many of you reading this none of this is about you…
Pullman (Dana 1968) is a masculine, lavender fragrance. It’s like Yardley’s English Lavender but with an opening of strong citrus and vetiver throughout. Pullman is cool-headed and intelligent but with a certain softness. It also lasts a fairly long time on the skin and amazingly is cool and refreshing many hours after application.
While I couldn’t find a list of the notes for Pullman, my nose detects: lavender, rosemary, amalfi lemon, bergamot, vetiver, clary sage (?), musk, sandalwood, and jasmine (?).
Well, we didn’t even make it to the Farmer’s Market yesterday… So, instead I made New England Clam Chowder, with crutons and a peach pie for desert. I mostly made everything from stratch, but I did use an already made pie dough and a baguette for the crutons… I’ll post photos on Instagram. I hope my husband likes it. He deserves a special day for how hard he works and for what a good father he is to our son…
I hope you’re having a nice weekend and to all the fathers out there, happy Father’s Day! 🙂