Violetta di Parma 

Vintage Violetta di Parma (Bosari 1870 1970) is a bright, brilliant violet. It’s sugary. It’s green tinged and a bit spicy… It’s like a violet confection with rosy florals and a vanillic base… Very fun.  

Notes: rose, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, hyacinth, heliotrope and musky and woody notes. 

Parure 

img_2641

Parure (Guerlain 1975) is denseand tumultuous green florals laced with bergamot meet a spicy purple plum. A glamorous rose and jasmine mix with sleek iris and the grounding, enduring oakmoss is heroic. Pretty, stoic amber finds thoughtful but aggressive patchouli, especially into the drydown. This is a heady but still springlike scent. Very romantic and very lovely.

Top notes: plum, fruity notes, green notes, bergamot and citruses.   Middle notes: orris root, narcissus, lilac, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, and rose.  Base notes: oakmoss, patchouli, amber, leather, and spices.

Nose: Jean-Paul Guerlain

Dioressence Concentré

Dioressence Concentré  (Christian Dior 1979?) is similar to the original Dioressence, Dioressence Concentré opens with strong and luxurious aldehydes, punchy green notes, and stately bergamot. But the carnation is rough while pretty and the dash of cinnamon is intense. You can vaguely detect a lovely violet, and clearly experience the powerful orris root, jasmine, ylang ylang, rose and geranium. And into the drydown the fragrance calms down and benzoin, oakmoss and a definite vetiver are present. 

It’s decadent, very 70’s and perhaps a bit like a more expensive and elegant version of Cachet by Prince Matchabelli. But it also has the subtlety and beauty of other classics into the drydown like Mitsouko and Miss Dior. 

Nose: Guy Robert 

Top notes:  aldehydes, orange, fruity notes, patchouli, green notes and bergamot.  Middle notes: carnation, tuberose, cinnamon, violet, orris root, jasmine, ylang-ylang, rose and geranium; Base notes: musk, patchouli, benzoin, vanilla, oakmoss, vetiver and styrax.

Eau de Guerlain 

Eau de Guerlain (Guerlain 1974) is fresh lemon with stunning hints of crisp green basil and mint. Then there’s the comforting and lovely depth of neroli, rose, carnation combined with sandalwood and patchouli. But it’s primarily a refreshing scent without being cold in the slightest. And were it not for supple notes like oakmoss, amber and gentle musk at the base it’s almost reminiscent of Guerlain’s more recent Herba Fresca. However, I prefer Eau de Guerlain. Unequivocally.

Top notes:  fruity notes, basil, bergamot, and lemon.   Middle notes: caraway, carnation, sandalwood, patchouli, lavender, jasmine, mint, bergamot, and rose.  Base notes: amber, musk, oakmoss, and neroli.

Nose: Jean Claude Guerlain

Gardenia Kölniviz

 

dsc06042

Gardenia Kölniviz (Caola 1970’s) is a somewhat green, daringly aldehydic effervescent gem.  The sparkling gardenia is powdery, and beautifully vintage.  There are likely notes of delicate, quiet rose, tuberose and a pretty jasmine.  And I’m surmising the presence of bergamot, vetiver, sandalwood, ylang ylang and possibly bergamot add to this woody, charming floral aldehyde.

Halston

2015-12-03 23.37.00

I remember Halston from a department store perfume section when I was about nine or so and my father was trying to pick out a Christmas gift for my mother.  For some reason I had the impression that she liked Halston so my father bought her a bottle and wrapped it up thinking he had found a great present…  When she opened it she was not exactly sure what to say because she certainly did not like Halston (I’m sure she brought it back and exchanged it).   It stood out to me at that time because it smelled so sophisticated, complex and different than anything I was used to smelling in the early 1990’s.

I was taken by the opening note of mint, with a fresh melon and a lightly sweet peach.  I was fascinated by the spicy carnation, the heady cedar, feisty vetyver, funky but sophisticated patchouli and incense.  It was a sort of olfactory liberation.  I never forgot it and it certainly paved the way for my future appreciation for older scents.   Halston is still a rich, charming and slightly intoxicating scent…

Top notes: mint, melon, green leaves, peach and bergamot.  Middle notes: carnation, orris root, jasmine, marigold, ylang-ylang, cedar and rose. Base notes: sandalwood, amber, patchouli, musk, oakmoss, vetyver and incense.

(this is vintage perfume sample)

Chloé

2015-10-04 17.17.22 (2)

Chloé is a bright, earthy, green floral (Chloé 1975).  It’s complex, a bit heady and quite elegant in a late 70’s/early 80’s way.  And, with a warm base of cedar, benzoin, musk, sandalwood and amber with an airy oakmoss it’s an iconic fragrance.

Top notes: honeysuckle, orangle blossom, ylang-ylang, hyacinth, lilac, coconut, bergamot, aldeydes and peach.  Middle notes: jasmine, rose, narcissus, tuberose, orris root and carnation.  Base notes: oakmoss, sandalwood, amber, musk, cedar and benzoin

As you may or may not have noticed, I’ve been bad at posting regularly these last few months.  The move, combined with a lot of other stressful (some positive) things have been quite distracting.  I’m sorry if you’re a regular reader of the blog.

My last short story of the month was never completed…  I apologize for that if you were reading it.  I’ll post the last part this week.

After the end of the month, and the start of the new year I’ll be only posting on Saturdays of each week.  I’m not sure yet what will be included in my weekly post exactly, but I’ll definitely feature a review of one new fragrance…   More to come in the next few days.

Thank you so much for reading!!!  I hope you’re having a pleasant start to your week or end of your weekend.

 

Jasmine

DSC01675 (2)

Vintage Jasmine from The Garden of Eden, a store located in Minneapolis, Minnesota, is so rich, green, complex and decadent.  Indeed, this is the most exotic, and thickest jasmine I’ve ever smelled.  It’s a heady floral with a beautiful autheticity and despite it’s unique and alluring character it has a certain almost prim quality.  The Garden of Eden still sells a jasmine oil and I hope to test it someday and see where things went after such a marvelous start (this bottle is likely from when the store first opened in the 1970’s).  I hope it will be just as marvelous…

Notes: jasmine.

Lil’ and Lex:  Part IV of IV

 

 

Vivace

2015-07-12 17.08.42

A warm, very bright tarragon and other spices (?), makes Vivace (Revillon) almost pungent in its floral charm.  This is not a fragrance for the faint of heart.  This is a very green chypre; quite earthy, almost bitter with an animalic pop of scent perfect for a cool day.

I can’t find an exact date of release for Vivace (or much information at all) but I would place it in the 1960’s if I were to hazard a guess…   Purely for its uniqueness I may look for more.  I imagine it would pair well with a lot of fragrances and add a ton of interest and zeal.

Pavlova

image

Pavlova (Payot 1977) is an aromatic, green floral chypre.  It’s woody, fresh and crisp, especially at first, but not cold.  As it continues it’s also a bit spicy.  And, as with many 1970’s fragrances, it has a definite edge.  There’s a subtle, serene rebelliousness to Pavlova.  It’s lovely but it’s not to be trifled with.  As the punchy flowers bloom on the skin it radiates a certain fiesty, collected charm.

Top notes: mandarin orange, cassia, raspberry and grapefruit.  Middle notes: tuberose, jasmine, hiacynth, neroli, ylang-ylang and geranium.  Base notes: sandalwood, musk, vanilla, oakmoss and vetiver.

Yesterday was unpleasant. I got about three hours of awful sleep the night before… Due to the complications earlier in the week we are not going to be unloading our furniture until Monday. So the night before I slept on an air mattress, which wouldn’t necessarily have had to be bad but it was… Sigh.

And, but for a few interactions on Instagram, yesterday, until the evening, was one long depressing reminder of how alone I feel almost always nowadays… But despite how that is it’s infinitely better than being stuck in something dead.  I just need to remind myself of positive things…

Oh and can I just vent for a moment about how much I hate pretentious suburbs (and no I’m not talking about wealth necessarily just pretentiousness)?! We stayed in one last night and at the grocery store this snotty woman with an attitude getting isn’t her old Lexus suv just left a shopping cart in the middle of the parking lot by a bunch of other cars… It could easily have crashed into someone or they could have crashed into it. I took it upon myself to bring it back. It irritated me to no end… I mean come on lady. First, a. my friends in high school drove your car like 15 years ago when it was supposedly cool so get over yourself and b. please, while you’re at it get the memo in general that you’re not the only one living here on this Earth.

🙂 🙂

It was a cruddy week actually in a lot of ways… I hope next week is better. A lot better. And, if today is any indication of what’s to come, I’m hopeful!

Hugs!

🙂