Nahema

I’ve seen Nahema around on Instagram and wondered what it was all about (Guerlain 1979). It sounded like a truly mysterious rose. And, it is… Of all the roses I’ve tried this is by far the darkest and wildest. It’s not dark and wild in some trite, static-moment-in-history, tacky way either. The peru balsam mixes…

Wild Rose

A tart but voluptuous rose is the dominant note in this vintage gem (Woods of Windsor unknown). It’s a green, resinous rose with possible accompanying notes of at least violet and geranium? Perhaps there’s also sandalwood (myrrh?) and heliotrope? Amber? At any rate, it’s wonderfully nostalgic and exactly what I was in the mood for…

Enjoli 

This is super sharp at the start (Charles of the Ritz 1978). The aldehydes and florals, with a very clear orris root and hyacinth, are intensely green. Enjoli could be called soapy but it’s practically too soapy to be called soapy… It almost becomes something else in a very 1980’s way.  Almost medical?  Matter of…

Zadig

Green aldehydes mix with rich florals and peach has a wild flurry with bergamot and coriander in Zadig (Emilio Pucci 1971).  Then a heady, swirl of civet, lovely ylang ylang and honey meet balsam and amber. Spices introduce themselves more aggressively while patchouli adds an element of wet earth. It’s a *very* intense fragrance on…

Rive Gauche 

Woody, green florals open this exquisite beauty (Yves Saint Laurent 1971).  It’s sharp, a bit bold and yet incredibly complex. While there are certainly aldehydic florals and the pungent geranium and peachy rose in particular is noticeable (to my nose) they all blend together almost magically and there is a layering effect of various moods…

Eau de Cologne Hermès

Eau de Cologne Hermès (Hermès 1979) is bitter, fresh… herbal. Perfectly blended. The orange is sublime and mixes with rosemary, basil, exquisite neroli and cedar to create an earthy and serene scent. I can’t imagine a better fragrance for a warm day to feel collected and at ease… More uplifting and bright than many similar…

Violetta di Parma 

Vintage Violetta di Parma (Bosari 1870 1970) is a bright, brilliant violet. It’s sugary. It’s green tinged and a bit spicy… It’s like a violet confection with rosy florals and a vanillic base… Very fun.   Notes: rose, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, hyacinth, heliotrope and musky and woody notes. 

Parure 

Parure (Guerlain 1975) is denseand tumultuous green florals laced with bergamot meet a spicy purple plum. A glamorous rose and jasmine mix with sleek iris and the grounding, enduring oakmoss is heroic. Pretty, stoic amber finds thoughtful but aggressive patchouli, especially into the drydown. This is a heady but still springlike scent. Very romantic and…

Dioressence Concentré

Dioressence Concentré  (Christian Dior 1979?) is similar to the original Dioressence, Dioressence Concentré opens with strong and luxurious aldehydes, punchy green notes, and stately bergamot. But the carnation is rough while pretty and the dash of cinnamon is intense. You can vaguely detect a lovely violet, and clearly experience the powerful orris root, jasmine, ylang…

Eau de Guerlain 

Eau de Guerlain (Guerlain 1974) is fresh lemon with stunning hints of crisp green basil and mint. Then there’s the comforting and lovely depth of neroli, rose, carnation combined with sandalwood and patchouli. But it’s primarily a refreshing scent without being cold in the slightest. And were it not for supple notes like oakmoss, amber…