Ombré Rose

Perhaps it’s the elegant use of rose and aldehydes but, Ombré Rose (Jean-Charles Brosseau 1981) reminds me quite a lot of Chanel No. 22 at the start. Then, a woody, vanillic, smoky warmth emerges that sizzles gorgeously without regard and yet with a lot of powdery whimsy. This is a definite rose scent but the accompanying sandalwood, vetiver, rosewood, lily-of-the-valley and really all the masterfully blended notes are far from out-shadowed. 
Top notes: Brazilian rosewood, peach, geranium, and aldehydes.   Middle notes: sandalwood, orris root, vetiver, ylang ylang, lily-of-the-valley, cedar and rose.  Base notes: honey, iris, tonka bean, cinnamon, musk, vanilla, and heliotrope. 

Nose: Françoise Caron 


In Samsara Guerlain 1989) luscious peach and citrus sweeten the skin with an emphasis on powdery lemon. Gummy jasmine and plush florals (violet, narcissus, iris, and rose) are warmed by the delicately sugared Guerlinade.  And the Guerlinade, and sensual musk mix with amber to create the buttery richness of decadent toffee.

Top notes: bergamot, lemon, ylang-ylang, peach and green notes.  Middle notes: jasmine, iris, narcissus, violet and rose.  Base notes: sandalwood, vanilla, tonka bean, amber, and musk.

Nose:  Jean Paul Guerlain

Jardins de Bagatelle


Sweet, gummy jasmine and velvety tuberose open Jardins de Bagatelle (Guerlain 1983).  Succulent narcissus, gardenia and ylang-ylang enshrine the other florals with dainty yet effusive lily-of-the-valley humming a gentle, sugary tune.  This is a luxurious scent in the bold 1980’s style with a lot of tenderness too.

Into the drydown the quiet, damp warmth of barely detectable but earthy patchouli accompanies sensual musk.  Nearly sharp vetiver and subtle cedar add even more depth, creating an exquisite beauty.

Jardins de Bagatelle is opulent, round and bouyant without being oppressive or cloying.  It’s a truly lovely fragrance…

Top notes: aldehydes, jasmine, violet, lemon and bergamot.  Middle notes: orchid, gardenia, orange blossom, narcissus, rose, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley, tuberose, and magnolia.  Base notes: vetiver, neroli, musk, cedar, tuberose, and patchouli.  

Nose: Jean-Paul Guerlain

Liz Claiborne


A bright, citrus tinged freesia, tuberose and carnation are sweetened by sensuous peach in the opening of Liz Claiborne (Liz Claiborne 1986).  Then pretty and mysterious florals emerge in a soft and tender cloud of sweet, warm and musky base notes.  Liz Claiborne is a loud 80’s floral, but it sings well…


Top notes: bergamot, freesia, mandarin orange, carnation, green notes, lily, marigold and peach.  Middle notes: jasmine, lilac, rose, lily-of-the-valley, violet, narcissus, ylang-ylang, and tuberose.  Base notes: oakmoss, musk, amber and sandalwood.  


imageSuper spicy, green beauty opens Barynia (Helena Rubenstein 1985).  It’s rich, with a gorgeous orris, orchid, bright aldehydes, carnation and a lovely, crisp vetiver.  Subtle tuberose and poignant rose are tinged with a sensual benzoin and musk.  The civet is loud but supple…  It’s a truly stunning fragrance.

Notes: vetiver, musk, carnation, jasmine, hyacinth, tuberose, sandalwood, benzoin, bergamot, amalfi lemon, orris root, civetta, rose, lily-of-the-valley, violet, orchid and aldehydes. 

(originally supposed to be posted yesterday)









Ivoire De Balmain

A gorgeous, green aldehydic opening in Ivoire De Balmain (Balmain 1980) is romantic, passionate and exotic.  Soon afterwards, a spicy floral, raindrop kissed scent emerges that is earthy but refined.  This fragrance is a great example of a paradox – it screams “natural” while hinting at something extremely civilised and urbane.  It’s not a fragrance to be missed…

Top notes: aldehydes, chamomile, asafoetida, mandarin orange, violet, artemisia, marigold, bergamot and lemon.  Middle notes:  nutmeg, carnation, cinnamon, narcissus, pepper, orris root, jasmine, Turkish rose, neroli, ylang-ylang and lily-of-the-valley.  Base notes: sandalwood, tonka bean, amber, patchouli, musk, raspberry, vanilla, oakmoss, vetyver and incense.

(This is a vintage sample)




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Totally opulent, sweet and fruity floral notes make Coco (Chanel 1984) simply lovely.   Coco is spicy and warm with a lusciousness that’s noteworthy.  The peach and rose notes swirl in a dance with  civet and vanilla.  This fragrance is ladylike without being austere or removed.  It is quite distinct…

Top notes: coriander, mandarin orange, peach, jasmine and bulgarian rose.  Middle notes:  mimosa, cloves, orange blossom, clover and rose. Base notes: labdanum, amber, sandalwood, tonka bean, opoponax, civet and vanilla.



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Sophia is a green floral scent (Coty 1980).  And, while I can only find two notes listed for it (rose and jasmine) I can’t help but experience it is a bit of a chypre…  It’s also quite amazing how much depth and change over time the two notes create?  At any rate, this celebrity fragrance (Sophia Loren) is an unusual one as far as celebrity scents go…

Notes: jasmine and rose