Demi-Jour

This is a honey-laced floral (Houbigant 1987). Vintage Demi-Jour has all the sparkle and structure of an aldehyde too, of course, but it’s incredibly warm. Actually, it reminds me of the graham crackers and apple cider my preschool used to serve this time of the year. Ha! It also reminds me of kindergarten. I think…

Bijan (women)

Opulent. To me, this classic 1980’s fragrance is the epitome of the opulence of that era. Today, vintage Bijan (Bijan Bijan 1986) smells niche. It’s rich, engaging, and nearly aromatic in its intensity. 🌿The opening is warm, with florals arranging themselves adorned in base notes that shimmer like expensive gold baubles. Then a fairly green…

Fendi

This was one of my (paternal) Grandma Adeline’s favorite fragrances. Smelling the perfume from this late 1980’s or early 90’s bottle I am transported back to my grandparent’s house. Fendi (Fendi 1985) wafted around various spots and left a pleasing fragrance trail. Fendi suited Adeline so well. She had dark brown, well coiffed hair and…

Nocturnes de Caron

Apple-like aldehydes lace a powdery rose at the start of Nocturnes de Caron (Caron 1981). Then sharp, vibrant citrus notes mix with a fruity jasmine. And all through the life of the fragrance the notes are drenched by sweet, slightly animatic but elegant musk. Really, the name fits it perfectly. It’s brooding, melancholy and lovely…

Giorgio Beverly Hills For Men 

While Giorgio Beverly Hills is a blast of tuberose that can almost be offensive (or just is offensive depending on who you ask and their experience with the scent) Giorgio Beverly Hills For Men (Giorgio Beverly Hills 1984) is a bit more regal and refined. Marbled orange and aldehydes start and then are flanked by…

Tiffany 

This fragrance is another exercise in whether or not vintage fragrance actually can hold up over time.  I remember Tiffany well.  Got some reason I wore it in the fifth grade… I’m taught the same bitteersweet lessons: some bottles last better than others and in the bottles that don’t hold up well the notes become…

Diva 

Although Knowing is heralded for its sharp, but engaging beauty and Magie Noire for the figure eight created by the notes, Diva (Emanuel Ungaro 1983) instantly reminds me of these classics. I detect honey (a base note) and breathtaking rose right from the start. The green, ebullient spices then mix with citrus brightened civet and…

Hardy Amies 

With grassy, herbal and sweet notes, Hardy Amies (Hardy Amies 1985) has a clean but slightly bold start. It almost smells like a vintage gourmet sugar coated candy… And it’s a little powdery. The petitgrain, rose and chamomile are airy but covered by sugary citrus. You almost want to eat it it smells so delectable……

Raffinée

Soapy clary sage, plum and tender, green carnation (Houbigant 1982) are rich and effusive.  And vintage orange blossom, jasmine, tuberose and mimosa sing from the heart of Raffinée.  Then orris root mixes with sandalwood and cypress to turn up the volume.  Certainly there’s musk, vanilla,  incense and vetiver but despite their presence the other notes…

Poison 

Plum combines with crimson and purple berries to make a syrupy juice that’s sweet and enveloping (Christian Dior 1985).   It sets a fairytale mood at the start. Soon you can smell honey and spices flanking a *very* red rose. Then there’s carnation, sandalwood and a perfectly musky, dark opoponax tinged and nearly foreboding vanilla….