Raffinée


Soapy clary sage, plum and tender, green carnation (Houbigant 1982) are rich and effusive.  And vintage orange blossom, jasmine, tuberose and mimosa sing from the heart of Raffinée.  Then orris root mixes with sandalwood and cypress to turn up the volume.  Certainly there’s musk, vanilla,  incense and vetiver but despite their presence the other notes are soboisterous (but not obnoxious) they become accompianments.  This is a true saucy, beautiful, sweet and spicy 80’s gem.  It’s definitely worth investigating.  

Top notes: carnation, orange blossom, plum, clary sage, jasmine, lemon, bergamot and rose.  Middle notes:  mimosa, tuberose, tonka bean, orchid, osmanthus, orris root, hiacynth and ylang-ylang.  Base notes: spices, cypress, sandalwood, cinnamon, musk, vanilla, vetiver and incense.

Poison 


Plum combines with crimson and purple berries to make a syrupy juice that’s sweet and enveloping (Christian Dior 1985).   It sets a fairytale mood at the start. Soon you can smell honey and spices flanking a *very* red rose. Then there’s carnation, sandalwood and a perfectly musky, dark opoponax tinged and nearly foreboding vanilla. Vintage Poison tells of love gone wrong and then right. It’s an epic and exalting story of great beauty in one fragrance…

Top notes: plum, wild berries, Brazilian rosewood, and anise.  Middle notes: tuberose, opoponax, honey, African orange flower, incense, rose, jasmine, cinnamon and carnation.  Base notes: heliotrope, vanilla, vetiver, sandalwood, musk, Virginia cedar and amber. 

Nose: Edouard Flechier 

Sung 


Spicy lily-of-the-valley and carnation are flanked by bright citrus notes (Alfred Sung 1986).  Into the drydown a musky, amber vanillic warmth becomes ever more opulent. Other florals are green, dense and yet watery… It’s a very 80’s scent, and a pretty one. 

My Grandma Adeline had a box of this and Giorgio Beverly Hills on her dresser in my early childhood. I remember always being curious and smelling it occasionally…

Top notes: lemon, bergamot, ylang ylang, hiacynth, galbanum, mandarin orange, and orange.  Middle notes: carnation, iris, rose, orchid, lily-of-the-valley, rose, and osmanthus.  Base notes: vanilla, amber, vetiver, oakmoss, musk, orange blossom and sandalwood.  

Dans La Nuit 


Soft, powdery, sweet floral aldehydes are flanked by green florals, musk, amber and a pretty sandalwood. The bouquet of Dans La Nuit (Worth 1924 and 1985) is particularly noticeable… I can easily detect numerous individual notes: in particular spicy carnation, lily-of-the-valley, and rose. It’s a truly blooming scent… and the gummy, raucous base notes are boozy and juicy. Even though this vintage bottle is clearly from the 80’s formulation the original mindset and heart of the original version from the roaring 20’s remains. Pleasant for a night in, much more appropriate for a night out… but certainly *night*. 

Ombré Rose

Perhaps it’s the elegant use of rose and aldehydes but, Ombré Rose (Jean-Charles Brosseau 1981) reminds me quite a lot of Chanel No. 22 at the start. Then, a woody, vanillic, smoky warmth emerges that sizzles gorgeously without regard and yet with a lot of powdery whimsy. This is a definite rose scent but the accompanying sandalwood, vetiver, rosewood, lily-of-the-valley and really all the masterfully blended notes are far from out-shadowed. 
Top notes: Brazilian rosewood, peach, geranium, and aldehydes.   Middle notes: sandalwood, orris root, vetiver, ylang ylang, lily-of-the-valley, cedar and rose.  Base notes: honey, iris, tonka bean, cinnamon, musk, vanilla, and heliotrope. 

Nose: Françoise Caron 

Samsara 

In Samsara Guerlain 1989) luscious peach and citrus sweeten the skin with an emphasis on powdery lemon. Gummy jasmine and plush florals (violet, narcissus, iris, and rose) are warmed by the delicately sugared Guerlinade.  And the Guerlinade, and sensual musk mix with amber to create the buttery richness of decadent toffee.

Top notes: bergamot, lemon, ylang-ylang, peach and green notes.  Middle notes: jasmine, iris, narcissus, violet and rose.  Base notes: sandalwood, vanilla, tonka bean, amber, and musk.

Nose:  Jean Paul Guerlain

Jardins de Bagatelle

dsc05898

Sweet, gummy jasmine and velvety tuberose open Jardins de Bagatelle (Guerlain 1983).  Succulent narcissus, gardenia and ylang-ylang enshrine the other florals with dainty yet effusive lily-of-the-valley humming a gentle, sugary tune.  This is a luxurious scent in the bold 1980’s style with a lot of tenderness too.

Into the drydown the quiet, damp warmth of barely detectable but earthy patchouli accompanies sensual musk.  Nearly sharp vetiver and subtle cedar add even more depth, creating an exquisite beauty.

Jardins de Bagatelle is opulent, round and bouyant without being oppressive or cloying.  It’s a truly lovely fragrance…

Top notes: aldehydes, jasmine, violet, lemon and bergamot.  Middle notes: orchid, gardenia, orange blossom, narcissus, rose, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley, tuberose, and magnolia.  Base notes: vetiver, neroli, musk, cedar, tuberose, and patchouli.  

Nose: Jean-Paul Guerlain

Liz Claiborne

image

A bright, citrus tinged freesia, tuberose and carnation are sweetened by sensuous peach in the opening of Liz Claiborne (Liz Claiborne 1986).  Then pretty and mysterious florals emerge in a soft and tender cloud of sweet, warm and musky base notes.  Liz Claiborne is a loud 80’s floral, but it sings well…

 

Top notes: bergamot, freesia, mandarin orange, carnation, green notes, lily, marigold and peach.  Middle notes: jasmine, lilac, rose, lily-of-the-valley, violet, narcissus, ylang-ylang, and tuberose.  Base notes: oakmoss, musk, amber and sandalwood.