Classic Gardenia 

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Although a simple fragrance in some regards Classic Gardenia (Dana 1995) is still a supple, fruity, slightly musky and lush soliflore. The tea-like wood notes are even a little opulent and as it wears on into the drydown a light, lacy subtlety emerges. For a gardenia lover the vintage of this is worth exploring…

Notes: woody notes, gardenia, and fruity notes.  

Canoe 

Blue like a lake on a sunny summer day, lavender, clary sage and lemon create a cool, crispness in Canoe (Dana 1936). Then warm florals mix with musk and patchouli bringing a buttery, doughy, almond sugar-like charm.  And the drydown is refined and elegant.  

Top notes are lavender, clary sage and lemon.  Middle notes are carnation, patchouli, bourbon geranium, cedar and cloves.  Base notes are tonka bean, vanilla, oakmoss, heliotrope and musk.

Nose: Jean Carles 

Canoe 


Vintage Canoé (Dana 1936) is one of those classic “men’s fragrances” that is actually quite genderless. The original scent is sublime with a brilliantly unique freshness. Musky, and perhaps a slight bit louder than not on the lemon it’s really a very blended concoction so it’s a little difficult to pick each note apart… I’ll have to look for the larger vintage bottle.  

Bon Voyage 

Bon Voyage (Dana 1960) is one of those rare vintages that catch you by surprise. It’s extremely spicy… If a hot pepper found its way into a bottle of a labdanum and oakmoss drenched green chypre it might resemble Bon Voyage. Although, it’s important to note that this scent, while very vibrant, is also well composed. The notes are rich, warm and pretty… 

Tyran 

Tyran (Dana possibly 1930’s – unknown) is spicy, fruity notes careen elegantly about eventually creating a powdery chypre. The few florals are lovely but dark and dense. This is a very intelligent and subversive scent perhaps best worn, as many of the scents in this vintage sampler, at night… 

Symbole 

Bright, beautiful tea-like green notes and gorgeous florals are flanked by truly smoky aldehydes and spice at the beginning of Symbole (Dana 1946).  It’s a robust chypre with definite styrax, rose, musk, and vetiver. The unique thing about Symbole however, is that it’s not particularly weighed down despite its depth. It’s an almost fun scent in a vintage lavender meets glitter sort of way… 

Platine 

Platine (Dana 1939) is extraordinarily earthy aldehydes. Intriguingly, the base notes of ambergris, patchouli, orris and eventually oak moss are bold, sensual and totally present from start to finish. The lily of the valley, vetiver and cypress emerge next, followed by ylang ylang, jasmine, and orange blossom. Truly, Platine is like an elegant vintage mink. It’s difficult to wear easily, especially for day, but certainly possible.
Into the drydown the wet earth patchouli meets a hint of narcissus, citrus and other florals in a springlike background. But it’s the heady base and rocky aldehydes that are bravest.

Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, jonquil and narcissus.  Middle notes: orange blossom, lily of the valley, ylang ylang, jasmine, iris, tuberose and Bulgarian rose.  Base notes: ambergris, musk, patchouli, juniper, cypress, orris, vetiver, sandalwood, oak moss and styrax

 

Emir

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Emir (Dana 1936) is classified as an oriental fragrance.  It starts with a rich, warm aldehydic burst of unearthly powdery citrus, specifically citronella.  And, as it moves into an intense and vibrant floral heart it has an enormous but not overpowering presence.  Matter of fact, at times it is a bit like a good bottle of vintage Emeraude – balsamic but not coarse.  Sensual but never crass…  Into the drydown, this woody, spicy, musky and truly rare beauty is reminiscent of the camphor headiness in vintage Youth Dew but with a distinct powdery, blue allure…

 

Nose: Jean Carles

Top notes: aldehydes, citronella, lemongrass, bergamot, camphor

Middle notes: coriander, Bulgarian rose, iris, ylang ylang, frankincense, jasmine, carnation, galbanum, cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, lily of the valley,

Base notes: orris, incense, vanilla, labdanum, tolu balsam, leather, musk, sandalwood, benzoin, patchouli, oakmoss, vetiver, cedar, civet, ambergris