At the start, bourbon vanilla adds saucy sugar to a very supple camelia (Krigler 2009). Matter of fact this pair is so vibrant, engaging and certain in their intentions that you can’t help but be carried away momentarily to a sunlit solarium or a perfect spring day outdoors. The noble flower is flanked by delicate musk, a particularly luxurious and well done note of pink pepper, and chilled, quiet cedar. Truly, you can almost smell each petal and it’s glorious. I love this fragrance, hope to acquire a bottle someday and heartily recommend it. It’s very well blended and it has a fresh, contemporary sensibility but the brilliant detail, quality and depth are from a different time.
Notes: camelia blossom, bourbon vanilla, musk, pink pepper, cardamom, cedar and Chinese tea.
Although Krigler is a very luxurious, and respectable house I’m afraid Lovely Patchouli 55 (Krigler 1955) is not exactly… what I expected. It’s very sweet, and there’s something almost abrasive about the way it plays with my chemistry. It’s also tart. The notes mix together into a loud patchouli and then collectively punch one in the nose. I would not say it is pretty… or handsome. And, while the drydown improves it, it doesn’t alter it entirely.
Notes: bergamot, leather, amber and patchouli.
Lieber Gustav 14 (Krigler 1914) starts out smelling like a good gin and tonic, then Shalimar eau de cologne, then there’s a crisp, bold and very vintage lavender (English Lavender) note, and then it settles into a peppery, smooth, manly drydown of woody notes that to my nose are a sweet sandalwood and elegant vetiver. In the late drydown smoky, vanillic notes that remind me of cedar and patchouli take center stage. And, all the while, although it’s not listed I keep thinking I detect a fresh, almost seductive citrus hovering in the background (the gin and tonic, and Shalimar…).
Lieber Gustav was worn by Ernest Heminway, Marlene Dietrich in the 1930’s, and Zelda Fitzgerald purchased it for her husband F. Scott Fitzgerald who wore it while he wrote Tender is the Night. And, while it may not be particularly unique in its individual notes it is very unique in presentation…
Notes: leather, lavender, black tea and woody aromas.