Peoneve

Jasmine flanked peony opens this floral treat (Penhaligon’s 2012). Violet leaf adds a lily-like, delicate sweetness. And musky, vetiver edged rose lingers distinctly, but distantly just beyond. But, Peoneve is really a green, leafy sort of scent. It’s meant for a spring or summer day just as this one…

Top note: violet leaf. Middle notes: rose, peony, and jasmine. Base notes: musk, vetiver, and cashmeran.

Nose: Olivier Cresp

Une Belle Journée

Une Belle Jouenée (Paul Emelien 2014) is magical. Somehow, when you first apply it, the iris, mint, rose, mandarin, jasmine and geranium read as…DILL! Fresh from the farmer’s market, on a perfect summer day, unbelievably elegant dill… And I adore it. Then it shifts about a little and the notes separate to form individual accords. Iris, mint and rose seem to be friends. Peony, plush immortelle, and violet leaf are buddies. And oakmoss, mandarin and rose seem to want iris to join their little gang… And as these notes clamor about for their place a gorgeous fragrance is formed and projected definitely but politely from the skin… 😍 I’m starting to think that I adore Paul Emelien.

Top notes: mandarin orange, iris, mint, Turkish rose and like. Middle notes: immortelle, rose, peony, jasmine, geranium, pink pepper, and violet leaf. Base notes: oakmoss, leather and jasmine.

Nose: Patrick Bodifée

Orange Blossom

Warm, endearing neroli is flanked by jasmine, peach blossom, tuberose and musk. Pink pepper and cedar round this sweet beauty out… It’s a classic orange blossom (Penhaligon’s 2010), it’s not particularly fussy and for some it might even seem too simple. But I love it. Penhaligon’s Orange Blossom is the sort of scent that won’t distract you but may occasionally infuse your day with a little comfort. 🌿 This is a 3.4 fl. oz. original formulation Penhaligon’s Orange Blossom eau de toilette.

Top notes: neroli, bergamot, amalfi lemon, pink pepper, violet leaf and cardamon. Middle notes: jasmine, tuberose, rose, orchid, peach blossom and orange. Base notes: musk, sandalwood, virginia cedar and vanille.

Nose: Bertrand Duchaufour

Le Jardin De Monsieur Li

Hermès mint mixes with Hermès jasmine in this fragrance (Hermès 2015) that makes constant allusions to spring… And pretty, fruity little kumquat sits atop of the mix like a happy clam. Light, airy, but definitely not quiet, this is perfect for a somewhat dreary late winter Saturday.

Notes: kumquat, jasmine and mint.

Nose: Jean-Claude Ellena

Majestic Woods

Intriguingly, Majestic Woods by Juicy Couture (2017) reminds me of brilliant creations by Daniel Josier for Renier Parfums: Black Rain and Kisses Rain, but with a hint of Black Opium for good measure… I like it, but find it derivative. Still, I really like it…

Ambroxan is saucy and bold here with a seductive tip of the hat to a sweet tonka bean and a genuinely lovely woody note. Certainly praline is also present and it’s smoky… but Majestic Woods is a bit more animalic than most sugary fragrances with similar notes. Although, it does remind me of the Renier fragrances and so I probably am a bit biased in this fragrance’s favor…

Notes: Woody notes, ambroxan, amber, praline and tonka bean.

Anubis

Anubis (Papillon Artisan Perfumes 2014) is everything I hoped it would be. It’s sultry, deep and very poignant. It reminds me why I love heavy fragrances with a rich myrrh using seductive saffron like a sword to pierce any bit of the austerity of the florals. And then there’s the leathery, sad and beautiful suede. But, mind you, this isn’t just a leathery floral. No. That haunting myrrh mix’s with olibanum to create something almost profound in its meaning and fizzy, lush and dear intimate beauty. I love this fragrance.

Miss Dior (edp 2017)

I’m generally not one to like modern interpretations of anything but for some unknown reason I like this one (Dior 2017). Of course, it’s only very vaguely reminiscent of the original Miss Dior but I do see a slight similarity and I’m not sure I like this one less. Yes, it’s very much a fragrance of its time. It’s almost identical in some regards to Dolce, Candy, Black Opium and other super sugar coated, rich, opulent 2000’s/2010’s scents. It even reminds me a tiny bit of Gabrielle, to be honest. But there’s something about it (similar to Gabrielle) that intrigues me and arrests my attention. Perhaps it’s the sweet citrus notes mixed with the moody pink pepper that makes me want to wear it? Or it could be the woody darkness lingering in the background? The sexy patchouli? I don’t know.

Rem L’Acqua

Rem L’Acqua by Reminiscence (2016) reminds me of Cool Water by Davidoff. Except, there’s this elegant and mature airy twist that makes it really kind of sublime… As someone who can’t wear ozonic or aquatic notes easily the marine notes in this fragrance are preferable. Actually though, the marine notes mixed with the floral musk and citrus almost turns into a scent like… well… celery, but it’s the sort of vegetable note that’s reminiscent of heaven frankly… and it’s lovely! I don’t think I’d purchase a whole bottle of this fragrance because other than Cool Water it reminds me of Un Jardin Sur Le Nil and Lubin’s Gin Fizz, but it really is nice…

Notes: Italian Bergamote, marine note, and white musks.

Un Chercher

This is a wild fragrance (Signature Fragrances 2014). But it’s wild and… blue. Like super chilled whisky. The lemon and lavender are menthol-like, in an almost eucalyptus sort of way, but they are lemon and lavender after-all… And this fragrance, classified as a men’s fragrance, is gentlemanly. Very polite. Even when the oud and meets the lusty musk it all stays quite appropriate. Also, the airy beauty of the lemon (flanked by an intelligent bergamot) overtakes everything and refuses to be anything but sublimely fresh, classic and… nice. I don’t usually wear men’s fragrances but this is one I may have to consider.

Top notes: lemon, bergamot and lavender. Middle notes: sandalwood, patchouli snd agarwood. Base notes: musk and amber.

English Oak and Hazelnut 


I’m beginning to recognize the Jo Malone signature, and of course this one is not an exception. English Oak and Hazelnut (Jo Malone 2017) is fresh, clean, cheerful and bright but elegant. While a citrus note isn’t listed the cedar is especially citrusy and the hazelnut and oak seem to join together in unison to create a starched, woody and yet light and perfectly autumnal scent. Both the cedar and oak are a little pine-like too. Very enjoyable.

Top note: hazelnut.  Middle note: cedar.  Base note: oak.

Nose: Yann Vasnier