Lemon and black current jump around wildly, wafting about you joyfully at the start (Atelier Cologne 2015). Perhaps it’s the cedar that tethers them down and eventually mixes them with a dash of sublime apricot, earthy papyrus and beautiful vetiver and amber. Cèdre Atlas is expansive, a little romantic, and very clean and contemporary. It feels cheerful to wear. Of course, as with many Atelier Cologne fragrances the longevity is a problem but I believe for some of them it’s definitely worth it to just wear and reapply when needed.
Top notes: lemon, black currant and bergamot. Middle notes: apricot, jasmine and cedar. Base notes: vetiver, papyrus and amber.
Nose: Jerome Epinette
When I first smelled Vétiver Fatal (Atelier Cologne 2012) I was instantly reminded of Chanel No. 18 and then later of Guerlain Vetiver. But anyway, throughout the entire progression until the very end, the notes both stand out individually and yet blend well together to create a fragrance that feels fresh, clean, contemporary a little comforting and cheerful. I’m not usually one to buy an oud fragrance but this is so luminous as aided by the delightful cedar, citrus and vetiver. Also, ironically, the fact that Atelier Colognes can sometimes fade within couple of hours works well for me in that regard. I don’t feel overwhelmed wearing this one, but I do feel uplifted by the lovely citrus notes and the crisp vetiver. I love it!
Notes: australian sandalwood, white sandalwood, spices, white musk and almond.
Jasmine flanked peony opens this floral treat (Penhaligon’s 2012). Violet leaf adds a lily-like, delicate sweetness. And musky, vetiver edged rose lingers distinctly, but distantly just beyond. But, Peoneve is really a green, leafy sort of scent. It’s meant for a spring or summer day just as this one…
Top note: violet leaf. Middle notes: rose, peony, and jasmine. Base notes: musk, vetiver, and cashmeran.
Nose: Olivier Cresp
Une Belle Jouenée (Paul Emelien 2014) is magical. Somehow, when you first apply it, the iris, mint, rose, mandarin, jasmine and geranium read as…DILL! Fresh from the farmer’s market, on a perfect summer day, unbelievably elegant dill… And I adore it. Then it shifts about a little and the notes separate to form individual accords. Iris, mint and rose seem to be friends. Peony, plush immortelle, and violet leaf are buddies. And oakmoss, mandarin and rose seem to want iris to join their little gang… And as these notes clamor about for their place a gorgeous fragrance is formed and projected definitely but politely from the skin… 😍 I’m starting to think that I adore Paul Emelien.
Top notes: mandarin orange, iris, mint, Turkish rose and like. Middle notes: immortelle, rose, peony, jasmine, geranium, pink pepper, and violet leaf. Base notes: oakmoss, leather and jasmine.
Nose: Patrick Bodifée
Warm, endearing neroli is flanked by jasmine, peach blossom, tuberose and musk. Pink pepper and cedar round this sweet beauty out… It’s a classic orange blossom (Penhaligon’s 2010), it’s not particularly fussy and for some it might even seem too simple. But I love it. Penhaligon’s Orange Blossom is the sort of scent that won’t distract you but may occasionally infuse your day with a little comfort. 🌿 This is a 3.4 fl. oz. original formulation Penhaligon’s Orange Blossom eau de toilette.
Top notes: neroli, bergamot, amalfi lemon, pink pepper, violet leaf and cardamon. Middle notes: jasmine, tuberose, rose, orchid, peach blossom and orange. Base notes: musk, sandalwood, virginia cedar and vanille.
Nose: Bertrand Duchaufour
Hermès mint mixes with Hermès jasmine in this fragrance (Hermès 2015) that makes constant allusions to spring… And pretty, fruity little kumquat sits atop of the mix like a happy clam. Light, airy, but definitely not quiet, this is perfect for a somewhat dreary late winter Saturday.
Notes: kumquat, jasmine and mint.
Nose: Jean-Claude Ellena
Intriguingly, Majestic Woods by Juicy Couture (2017) reminds me of brilliant creations by Daniel Josier for Renier Parfums: Black Rain and Kisses Rain, but with a hint of Black Opium for good measure… I like it, but find it derivative. Still, I really like it…
Ambroxan is saucy and bold here with a seductive tip of the hat to a sweet tonka bean and a genuinely lovely woody note. Certainly praline is also present and it’s smoky… but Majestic Woods is a bit more animalic than most sugary fragrances with similar notes. Although, it does remind me of the Renier fragrances and so I probably am a bit biased in this fragrance’s favor…
Notes: Woody notes, ambroxan, amber, praline and tonka bean.
Anubis (Papillon Artisan Perfumes 2014) is everything I hoped it would be. It’s sultry, deep and very poignant. It reminds me why I love heavy fragrances with a rich myrrh using seductive saffron like a sword to pierce any bit of the austerity of the florals. And then there’s the leathery, sad and beautiful suede. But, mind you, this isn’t just a leathery floral. No. That haunting myrrh mix’s with olibanum to create something almost profound in its meaning and fizzy, lush and dear intimate beauty. I love this fragrance.
I’m generally not one to like modern interpretations of anything but for some unknown reason I like this one (Dior 2017). Of course, it’s only very vaguely reminiscent of the original Miss Dior but I do see a slight similarity and I’m not sure I like this one less. Yes, it’s very much a fragrance of its time. It’s almost identical in some regards to Dolce, Candy, Black Opium and other super sugar coated, rich, opulent 2000’s/2010’s scents. It even reminds me a tiny bit of Gabrielle, to be honest. But there’s something about it (similar to Gabrielle) that intrigues me and arrests my attention. Perhaps it’s the sweet citrus notes mixed with the moody pink pepper that makes me want to wear it? Or it could be the woody darkness lingering in the background? The sexy patchouli? I don’t know.