Intriguingly, Majestic Woods by Juicy Couture (2017) reminds me of brilliant creations by Daniel Josier for Renier Parfums: Black Rain and Kisses Rain, but with a hint of Black Opium for good measure… I like it, but find it derivative. Still, I really like it…
Ambroxan is saucy and bold here with a seductive tip of the hat to a sweet tonka bean and a genuinely lovely woody note. Certainly praline is also present and it’s smoky… but Majestic Woods is a bit more animalic than most sugary fragrances with similar notes. Although, it does remind me of the Renier fragrances and so I probably am a bit biased in this fragrance’s favor…
Notes: Woody notes, ambroxan, amber, praline and tonka bean.
Anubis (Papillon Artisan Perfumes 2014) is everything I hoped it would be. It’s sultry, deep and very poignant. It reminds me why I love heavy fragrances with a rich myrrh using seductive saffron like a sword to pierce any bit of the austerity of the florals. And then there’s the leathery, sad and beautiful suede. But, mind you, this isn’t just a leathery floral. No. That haunting myrrh mix’s with olibanum to create something almost profound in its meaning and fizzy, lush and dear intimate beauty. I love this fragrance.
I’m generally not one to like modern interpretations of anything but for some unknown reason I like this one (Dior 2017). Of course, it’s only very vaguely reminiscent of the original Miss Dior but I do see a slight similarity and I’m not sure I like this one less. Yes, it’s very much a fragrance of its time. It’s almost identical in some regards to Dolce, Candy, Black Opium and other super sugar coated, rich, opulent 2000’s/2010’s scents. It even reminds me a tiny bit of Gabrielle, to be honest. But there’s something about it (similar to Gabrielle) that intrigues me and arrests my attention. Perhaps it’s the sweet citrus notes mixed with the moody pink pepper that makes me want to wear it? Or it could be the woody darkness lingering in the background? The sexy patchouli? I don’t know.
Rem L’Acqua by Reminiscence (2016) reminds me of Cool Water by Davidoff. Except, there’s this elegant and mature airy twist that makes it really kind of sublime… As someone who can’t wear ozonic or aquatic notes easily the marine notes in this fragrance are preferable. Actually though, the marine notes mixed with the floral musk and citrus almost turns into a scent like… well… celery, but it’s the sort of vegetable note that’s reminiscent of heaven frankly… and it’s lovely! I don’t think I’d purchase a whole bottle of this fragrance because other than Cool Water it reminds me of Un Jardin Sur Le Nil and Lubin’s Gin Fizz, but it really is nice…
Notes: Italian Bergamote, marine note, and white musks.
This is a wild fragrance (Signature Fragrances 2014). But it’s wild and… blue. Like super chilled whisky. The lemon and lavender are menthol-like, in an almost eucalyptus sort of way, but they are lemon and lavender after-all… And this fragrance, classified as a men’s fragrance, is gentlemanly. Very polite. Even when the oud and meets the lusty musk it all stays quite appropriate. Also, the airy beauty of the lemon (flanked by an intelligent bergamot) overtakes everything and refuses to be anything but sublimely fresh, classic and… nice. I don’t usually wear men’s fragrances but this is one I may have to consider.
Top notes: lemon, bergamot and lavender. Middle notes: sandalwood, patchouli snd agarwood. Base notes: musk and amber.
I’m beginning to recognize the Jo Malone signature, and of course this one is not an exception. English Oak and Hazelnut (Jo Malone 2017) is fresh, clean, cheerful and bright but elegant. While a citrus note isn’t listed the cedar is especially citrusy and the hazelnut and oak seem to join together in unison to create a starched, woody and yet light and perfectly autumnal scent. Both the cedar and oak are a little pine-like too. Very enjoyable.
Top note: hazelnut. Middle note: cedar. Base note: oak.
Nose: Yann Vasnier
Writing about this one is scary. It reminds me of a class I took in my junior year of college. I went to a private religiously affiliated college and for one required Biblical studies class I had a professor who insisted that by the end of his class we would be amazed by an interpretation he had of a particular book in the Bible. Our final grade would be based largely on this intrepretation and a presentation involving it, but the catch was that we had to guess what his interpretation was based on what we had learned throughout the course. As luck would have it in my innocence and trust I believed him and began to look for something astounding. In my assigned group for the presentation everyone else found and tended to believe the most obvious answer, but I kept looking for that (as he literally put it) “life changing” nugget of wisdom.
At the time of our presentation I decided to take a risk and differ from everyone else in the group. Of course, they were right. And I got harshly yelled at in front of everyone in my group… I was hurt, confused and shocked. Apparently my “crazy” answer was sacrilegious and deeply offensive. But again… (and I say this very seriously) I was looking for something you could think was “life changing.” 😂😬🤔😆😂
Anyway, one thing I learned from that rather traumatic experience was that what one person sees as “amazing” to someone else can be… painfully, pathetically obvious. You truly have to interpret many opinions in life with a humility rooted in the knowledge that all of our experiences are wildly different. There are facts but how things affect you is so incredibly personal and beyond objection.
I love Gabrielle (Chanel 2017). To me, on my skin, this Olivier Polge beauty is magnificent.
Gabrielle is utterly melancholy, almost sad. Actually, if a perfume could cry I think this one might. But it’s ethereal, moving and subtle. And sure it’s glamorous, but in a quiet, polite citrus, jasmine and orange blossom way. The warm base notes are present but airy and reserved. And there is that Chanel tuberose (also found in Chanel No. 22) that on my skin is different than any other tuberose – very demure and nearly a different note.
This is also a very vintage-like scent. If there’s any awkwardness I read it’s because it feels like Chloé Love Story gave one of my very old floral aldehydes a modern makeover and she’s stunning but maybe she didn’t need it… Still the heart of Gabrielle shines brightly through and feels marvelously alive.
Top notes: lemon, black currant and mandarin orange. Middle notes: jasmine, ylang ylang, orange blossom and tuberose. Base notes: musk and sandalwood.
Nose: Olivier Polge
Lavender, musky, sweet lavender comes through with the smell of an herbal, lovely grass note (Chanel 2011). Then more herbal beauty floats about the skin laced with that burning, glowing, musky warmth. But it’s the very vintage-like florals that perfectly flank the lavender. It’s as if lavender threw a party for her closest friends and they ate a big, fluffy cake. It’s a tremendously lovely… I adore Jersey.
Notes: lavender, vanille, musk, wildflowers, grass, tonka bean, jasmine and rose.
Nose: Jacques Polge
While only honeysuckle and apple are listed as notes on Frangrantica, Drunk on Youth (Derek Lam 10 Crosby 2015) is still a rather complex scent. It’s very typical for a contemporary fragrance, true, but it’s also genuinely nice. The honeysuckle and apple used are neither too sweet nor too clean. To me this fragrance just reads as very fresh and surprisingly subtle, albeit a tinge synthetic. Either way, the rain kissed peony-like apple and honeysuckle that’s almost more like a note of chamomile, are lovely on this crisp autumn day.
Notes: honeysuckle and apple.
At the very, very first breath of Mon Guerlain (Guerlain 2017) you detect citrus. Then an almost retro lavender note emerges, but is coyly submerged into the currently popular gourmand sweet vanilla mixed with a pretty bit of jasmine and iris. It’s reminiscent of Black Opium, Prada Candy and a few others but there is a nice, refreshing floral accord that eventually seems to reemphasize the original lavender.
Nose: Thierry Wasser and Jelk