Chant D’ Arômes

This is a chypre at its best. Vintage green florals are slightly sweet but far from being cloying or shrill. This Guerlain (Guerlain 1962) is like a walk through a blooming garden on a rainy day – earthy, dense, and grounded but with a musky, mysterious beauty. And although it is the first day of…

Fleur de Feu

This magical beauty is very animalic on my skin (Guerlain 1948 and recreated but *not* reformulated in 2014). Of course, that’s despite a noticeable amount of aldehydes and what, for me, are a prominent lily-of-the-valley and rose (not carnation as I’ve read in other reviews 🤗🤔🤗 – I smell the carnation *much* more when sprayed…

Vega (2006)

So, I bought a sample of the 2006 version of Guerlain Vega for comparison. I was curious to see how much it had changed and I was curious to see how “off” my very vintage bottle of Guerlain Vega is. They’re definitely the same fragrance and it seems the parfum of the original version stayed…

Vega (original 1936)

Like a sultry, honey-drenched version of Liu, Guerlain Vega (original formulation Guerlain 1936) opens with Guerlain aldehydes and warm florals. Bergamot adds a faint, demure, ladylike edge. Orange blossom a definite soapiness. And sweet, gentle, woody iris is the floral from the bouquet that eventually wins on my skin. Although, smoky jasmine, rose and lush…

Rosa Magnifica

This is an exceptionally potent and spicy rose at the start (Guerlain 1999). Or at least it is on my skin. It’s actually reminiscent of Nahema…and that worried me for the first half an hour. I think something about the combination of this particular violet and hyacinth with the rose reads as punchy, syrupy and…

Nahema

I’ve seen Nahema around on Instagram and wondered what it was all about (Guerlain 1979). It sounded like a truly mysterious rose. And, it is… Of all the roses I’ve tried this is by far the darkest and wildest. It’s not dark and wild in some trite, static-moment-in-history, tacky way either. The peru balsam mixes…

Mon Guerlain 

At the very, very first breath of Mon Guerlain (Guerlain 2017) you detect citrus. Then an almost retro lavender note emerges, but is coyly submerged into the currently popular gourmand sweet vanilla mixed with a pretty bit of jasmine and iris. It’s reminiscent of Black Opium, Prada Candy and a few others but there is…

Vetiver

The vintage version of Vetiver (Guerlain 1959) is my favorite. With its genuinely fruity lemon and spicy vetiver aromatically swirling around the wearer at the start before calming to a gentle, heavenly and crisp citrusy vetiver scent laced with what smells like the remains of pipe tobacco from decades long past. And of course, it’s…

Véritable Eau de Cologne Impériale 

An extremely herbal but ultimately elegant Guerlinade is Véritable Eau de Cologne Impériale Extra Dry (Guerlain 1904).  It’s green but demure and detached in a cool, breezy sort of way. The lemon verbena is especially noteworthy. It meets other very verdant notes to create an olfactory sensation akin to taking a drink of cold mountain…

Parure 

Parure (Guerlain 1975) is denseand tumultuous green florals laced with bergamot meet a spicy purple plum. A glamorous rose and jasmine mix with sleek iris and the grounding, enduring oakmoss is heroic. Pretty, stoic amber finds thoughtful but aggressive patchouli, especially into the drydown. This is a heady but still springlike scent. Very romantic and…