Tendre Poison 


Supple, citrus laced freesia haunts rose, tuberose and an orange blossom reminiscent of a perfectly sweet apple in Tendre Poison (Dior 1994). The asafoetida is melancholy and demure as it mixes gracefully with heliotrope, vanilla and rosewood. But always that apple-like sugary, loveliness returns. This is a definite beauty. 

Top notes: bergamot, mandarin orange, asafoetida, and Brazilian rosewood. Middle notes: orange blossom, rose, freesia, tuberose, and honey.  Base notes: heliotrope, vanilla, musk and sandalwood.  

Nose: Edouard Flechier 

Poison 


Plum combines with crimson and purple berries to make a syrupy juice that’s sweet and enveloping (Christian Dior 1985).   It sets a fairytale mood at the start. Soon you can smell honey and spices flanking a *very* red rose. Then there’s carnation, sandalwood and a perfectly musky, dark opoponax tinged and nearly foreboding vanilla. Vintage Poison tells of love gone wrong and then right. It’s an epic and exalting story of great beauty in one fragrance…

Top notes: plum, wild berries, Brazilian rosewood, and anise.  Middle notes: tuberose, opoponax, honey, African orange flower, incense, rose, jasmine, cinnamon and carnation.  Base notes: heliotrope, vanilla, vetiver, sandalwood, musk, Virginia cedar and amber. 

Nose: Edouard Flechier 

Diorama 


Vintage Diorama (Dior 1948) opens with a peach sweet, slightly spiced green violet. Carnation, clove and tuberose mix beautifully. While civetta, castoreum and musk are present they’re surprisingly demure. The leather is also relatively subtle. And although geranium isn’t listed, I keep interpreting some combination of notes as that particular floral… Diorama is woody with cedar but it’s really mainly floral – almost a chypre… But I can’t get over how sugar-laced violet this one is with my skin chemistry… 
Top notes: bergamot, peach, melon, and plum.  Middle notes: violet, lily-of-the-valley, jasmine, gardenia, tuberose, clove, nutmeg, cinnamon, rose, carraway and pepper.  Base notes: sandalwood, oakmoss, vetiver, Virginia cedar, musk, castoreum, civetta, and leather.  

Nose: Edmond Roudnitska 

Diorling 


Diorling (Dior 1963) opens to the smell of sharp green fresh cut flowers flanked by spicy, damp patchouli and subtle leather. It’s crisp, but powdery… with a particularly pretty iris. Very much a 60’s green scent it reminds me a little bit of both Miss Balmain and Chamade but with the sparkling loveliness of L’Interdit, especially into the drydown.

Top notes: hyacinth and bergamot.  Middle notes: iris, jasmine, rose and lily-of-the-valley.  Base notes: vetiver, musk, patchouli, oak moss and leather.

Nose: Paul Vacher 

Dioressence Concentré

Dioressence Concentré  (Christian Dior 1979?) is similar to the original Dioressence, Dioressence Concentré opens with strong and luxurious aldehydes, punchy green notes, and stately bergamot. But the carnation is rough while pretty and the dash of cinnamon is intense. You can vaguely detect a lovely violet, and clearly experience the powerful orris root, jasmine, ylang ylang, rose and geranium. And into the drydown the fragrance calms down and benzoin, oakmoss and a definite vetiver are present. 

It’s decadent, very 70’s and perhaps a bit like a more expensive and elegant version of Cachet by Prince Matchabelli. But it also has the subtlety and beauty of other classics into the drydown like Mitsouko and Miss Dior. 

Nose: Guy Robert 

Top notes:  aldehydes, orange, fruity notes, patchouli, green notes and bergamot.  Middle notes: carnation, tuberose, cinnamon, violet, orris root, jasmine, ylang-ylang, rose and geranium; Base notes: musk, patchouli, benzoin, vanilla, oakmoss, vetiver and styrax.

Dolce Vita

A sweet, lovely lily flanked by magnolia and rose open Dolce Vita (Dior 1994).  Flirtatious peach and apricot are warmed by cinnamon and a gentle sandalwood and vanilla.  This scent is wild romance in the same vein as Rochas Femme or Amarige – spicy, enticing beauty.

Top notes: lily, magnolia and rose.  Middle notes: peach, apricot and cinnamon.  Base notes: sandal, heliotrope and vanilla.

Noses:  Pierre Bourdon and Maurice Roger

J’Adore

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Bright, blooming and luminous florals delight in the opening of J’Adore (Dior 1999).  It’s pear, peach, plum and citrus in a fluid warmth that is both uplifting and playful.  A bit reminiscent of Chamade it has a soft sultry loveliness that is both mesmerizing and prone to induce melancholy upon its departure…  This a fragrance meant to be worn by those who do not wish to be soon forgotten.

Top notes: melon, magnolia, peach, pear, mandarine orange, and bergamot.  Middle notes: tuberose, plum, violet, lily-of-the-valley, jasmine, rose, orchid, and freesia.  Base notes: blackberry, cedar, musk and vanilla.

Nose: Calice Becker


So…  this blog has been a mess and I apologize for that.  I have been distracted by deaths, illnesses, and sleepless nights…  It’s been an interesting last couple of weeks to say the least.

But… life goes on, time goes on and that’s good thing.

So on we go…

Miss Dior Blooming Bouquet

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At the start, the family resemblance between Miss Dior Blooming Bouquet (Dior 2014) and Miss Dior Cherie is noteworthy, but as the fragrance continues the note of mandarin becomes perhaps most original in its juicy zest.  Where Miss Dior Cherie was a bit smoky, playful and nearly naughty, Blooming Bouquet is delicate, clean and indeed evocative of… a blooming bouquet. One might wear Miss Dior or Miss Dior Cherie to a wedding, but it’s all but certain Blooming Bouquet would be absolutely appropriate.  The pretty peony, gentle peach and subtle apricot might even remind one of crisp Champagne.  It’s light, fresh, a little sweet and very pretty.

Top note: Sicilian mandarin.  Middle notes: pink peony, damask rose, peach and apricot. Base note: white musk.

Nose: Francois Demachy

Diorissimo

 

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Vintage Diorissimo (Dior 1956) is lily-of-the-valley done to perfection. It’s strong, very elegant and combined with a fresh, authentic lilac that blossoms as the scent progresses, it’s also wildly romantic. Diorissimo is an exquisite floral fragrance that is infinitely springlike, with a chilled glamour. Even for someone who may never particularly like muguet it’s hard to truly deny the genuine loveliness of Diorissimo…

Top notes: bergamot and green leaves. Middle notes: boronia, jasmine, lilac, lily, Rosemary, Amaryllis, ylang-ylang, and lily-of-the-valley. Base notes: civet and sandalwood.

Hypnotic Poison

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Hypnotic Poison (Dior 1998) is spicy, sensual and modern.  It’s quite amazing actually…  It’s fresh and clean, yet warm, enveloping and sweet.  There’s also a delightful sharpness that melts into a hot, fascinating almond glow in the drydown.  I quite like it…

Top notes: apricot, plum and coconut.  Middle notes: tuberose, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, rose, Brazilian rosewood, and caraway.  Base notes: sandalwood, almond, vanilla and musk.

Yesterday was lovely.  After a family memorial on Saturday and a difficult last week I was fortunate enough to spend yesterday hiking through a forest and on bluffs overlooking the Puget Sound with my first cousin, his wonderful wife, their great little son, my husband and a good friend of my cousin’s from college.  It was absolutely delightful to spend time with them all.  They’re very loving, charming and authentic people.

When we walked through the forest there was one spot that had this minty, mossy green scent.  It’s so different than what you’d find in Minnesota.  It was romantic, elegant and a very pleasant discovery.  I love being outside in nature out here.

More on Wednesday, as usual…  Sorry about last week.