A salty, oakmoss-green and crisp, rose and peony are flanked by a haunting woody warmth (Dior 1991). The opening is sublime. Other delicate florals emerge in a bed of amber hued beauty. Airy yet opulent, Dune is a sunny, late summer or early fall day at an ocean beach – one with the smell of rose bushes and green woods wafting from land to sea. And into the drydown it sweetens and mellows to a nothing but a kiss of the sun.
Top notes: bergamot, mandarin, aldehyde, and peony. Middle notes: jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang, lily, and wallflower. Base notes: vanilla, patchouli, benzoin, sandalwood, amber, oakmoss, and musk.
Noses: Nejla Barbir and Jean-Louis Sieuzac
This Thierry Wasser gem must have been a staple in the fragrance wardrobes of many of my peers in the 2000’s because I remember smelling it whenever I went out for the night with friends. And like Dolce and Gabbana Light Blue or Viktor and Rolf Flower Bomb it evoked a sense of joy, youth and beauty back then. It was a little bold but in a nice way… The vanillic florals in Addict (Dior 2002) were ripe, juicy and sweet but not crass or pretentious. And it had a playful and festive amount of sillage. Thankfully I recently acquired this older bottle of the original formulation Addict… Every once and a while I’ll have to wear it and evoke memories of being 22 again…
Top notes: blackberry and mandarin leaf. Middle notes: night blooming cereus, orange blossom, rose and jasmine. Base notes: sandalwood, tonka bean and vanilla.
Nose: Thierry Wasser
I’m generally not one to like modern interpretations of anything but for some unknown reason I like this one (Dior 2017). Of course, it’s only very vaguely reminiscent of the original Miss Dior but I do see a slight similarity and I’m not sure I like this one less. Yes, it’s very much a fragrance of its time. It’s almost identical in some regards to Dolce, Candy, Black Opium and other super sugar coated, rich, opulent 2000’s/2010’s scents. It even reminds me a tiny bit of Gabrielle, to be honest. But there’s something about it (similar to Gabrielle) that intrigues me and arrests my attention. Perhaps it’s the sweet citrus notes mixed with the moody pink pepper that makes me want to wear it? Or it could be the woody darkness lingering in the background? The sexy patchouli? I don’t know.
This flacon is perfectly matched to this fragrance. Pure Poison (Dior 2004), to my nose, truly is like a clear, effervescent version of the original Dior Poison. It’s as if all the mysterious, fruity warmth and subtle spice of the first has been washed out and what’s left is a shimmery substance with a remarkable resemblance.
Unfortunately, it’s not a fragrance that couples well with my skin chemistry due to something that reads as aquatic on my skin. However, it’s easy to see its beauty from the citrusy top notes to the cool floral heart with a unique gardenia to the equally chilled, woody base.
Top notes: bergamot, Sicilian mandarin, orange and jasmine. Middle notes: orange blossom and gardenia. Base notes: sandalwood, white amber and cedar.
Noses: Carlos Benaim, Dominique Ropion, and Olivier Polge.
Supple, citrus laced freesia haunts rose, tuberose and an orange blossom reminiscent of a perfectly sweet apple in Tendre Poison (Dior 1994). The asafoetida is melancholy and demure as it mixes gracefully with heliotrope, vanilla and rosewood. But always that apple-like sugary, loveliness returns. This is a definite beauty.
Top notes: bergamot, mandarin orange, asafoetida, and Brazilian rosewood. Middle notes: orange blossom, rose, freesia, tuberose, and honey. Base notes: heliotrope, vanilla, musk and sandalwood.
Nose: Edouard Flechier
Plum combines with crimson and purple berries to make a syrupy juice that’s sweet and enveloping (Christian Dior 1985). It sets a fairytale mood at the start. Soon you can smell honey and spices flanking a *very* red rose. Then there’s carnation, sandalwood and a perfectly musky, dark opoponax tinged and nearly foreboding vanilla. Vintage Poison tells of love gone wrong and then right. It’s an epic and exalting story of great beauty in one fragrance…
Top notes: plum, wild berries, Brazilian rosewood, and anise. Middle notes: tuberose, opoponax, honey, African orange flower, incense, rose, jasmine, cinnamon and carnation. Base notes: heliotrope, vanilla, vetiver, sandalwood, musk, Virginia cedar and amber.
Nose: Edouard Flechier
Vintage Diorama (Dior 1948) opens with a peach sweet, slightly spiced green violet. Carnation, clove and tuberose mix beautifully. While civetta, castoreum and musk are present they’re surprisingly demure. The leather is also relatively subtle. And although geranium isn’t listed, I keep interpreting some combination of notes as that particular floral… Diorama is woody with cedar but it’s really mainly floral – almost a chypre… But I can’t get over how sugar-laced violet this one is with my skin chemistry…
Top notes: bergamot, peach, melon, and plum. Middle notes: violet, lily-of-the-valley, jasmine, gardenia, tuberose, clove, nutmeg, cinnamon, rose, carraway and pepper. Base notes: sandalwood, oakmoss, vetiver, Virginia cedar, musk, castoreum, civetta, and leather.
Nose: Edmond Roudnitska
Diorling (Dior 1963) opens to the smell of sharp green fresh cut flowers flanked by spicy, damp patchouli and subtle leather. It’s crisp, but powdery… with a particularly pretty iris. Very much a 60’s green scent it reminds me a little bit of both Miss Balmain and Chamade but with the sparkling loveliness of L’Interdit, especially into the drydown.
Top notes: hyacinth and bergamot. Middle notes: iris, jasmine, rose and lily-of-the-valley. Base notes: vetiver, musk, patchouli, oak moss and leather.
Nose: Paul Vacher
Dioressence Concentré (Christian Dior 1979?) is similar to the original Dioressence, Dioressence Concentré opens with strong and luxurious aldehydes, punchy green notes, and stately bergamot. But the carnation is rough while pretty and the dash of cinnamon is intense. You can vaguely detect a lovely violet, and clearly experience the powerful orris root, jasmine, ylang ylang, rose and geranium. And into the drydown the fragrance calms down and benzoin, oakmoss and a definite vetiver are present.
It’s decadent, very 70’s and perhaps a bit like a more expensive and elegant version of Cachet by Prince Matchabelli. But it also has the subtlety and beauty of other classics into the drydown like Mitsouko and Miss Dior.
Nose: Guy Robert
Top notes: aldehydes, orange, fruity notes, patchouli, green notes and bergamot. Middle notes: carnation, tuberose, cinnamon, violet, orris root, jasmine, ylang-ylang, rose and geranium; Base notes: musk, patchouli, benzoin, vanilla, oakmoss, vetiver and styrax.
A sweet, lovely lily flanked by magnolia and rose open Dolce Vita (Dior 1994). Flirtatious peach and apricot are warmed by cinnamon and a gentle sandalwood and vanilla. This scent is wild romance in the same vein as Rochas Femme or Amarige – spicy, enticing beauty.
Top notes: lily, magnolia and rose. Middle notes: peach, apricot and cinnamon. Base notes: sandal, heliotrope and vanilla.
Noses: Pierre Bourdon and Maurice Roger