Plum combines with crimson and purple berries to make a syrupy juice that’s sweet and enveloping (Christian Dior 1985).   It sets a fairytale mood at the start. Soon you can smell honey and spices flanking a *very* red rose. Then there’s carnation, sandalwood and a perfectly musky, dark opoponax tinged and nearly foreboding vanilla. Vintage Poison tells of love gone wrong and then right. It’s an epic and exalting story of great beauty in one fragrance…

Top notes: plum, wild berries, Brazilian rosewood, and anise.  Middle notes: tuberose, opoponax, honey, African orange flower, incense, rose, jasmine, cinnamon and carnation.  Base notes: heliotrope, vanilla, vetiver, sandalwood, musk, Virginia cedar and amber. 

Nose: Edouard Flechier 


Vintage Diorama (Dior 1948) opens with a peach sweet, slightly spiced green violet. Carnation, clove and tuberose mix beautifully. While civetta, castoreum and musk are present they’re surprisingly demure. The leather is also relatively subtle. And although geranium isn’t listed, I keep interpreting some combination of notes as that particular floral… Diorama is woody with cedar but it’s really mainly floral – almost a chypre… But I can’t get over how sugar-laced violet this one is with my skin chemistry… 
Top notes: bergamot, peach, melon, and plum.  Middle notes: violet, lily-of-the-valley, jasmine, gardenia, tuberose, clove, nutmeg, cinnamon, rose, carraway and pepper.  Base notes: sandalwood, oakmoss, vetiver, Virginia cedar, musk, castoreum, civetta, and leather.  

Nose: Edmond Roudnitska 


Diorling (Dior 1963) opens to the smell of sharp green fresh cut flowers flanked by spicy, damp patchouli and subtle leather. It’s crisp, but powdery… with a particularly pretty iris. Very much a 60’s green scent it reminds me a little bit of both Miss Balmain and Chamade but with the sparkling loveliness of L’Interdit, especially into the drydown.

Top notes: hyacinth and bergamot.  Middle notes: iris, jasmine, rose and lily-of-the-valley.  Base notes: vetiver, musk, patchouli, oak moss and leather.

Nose: Paul Vacher 

Dioressence Concentré

Dioressence Concentré  (Christian Dior 1979?) is similar to the original Dioressence, Dioressence Concentré opens with strong and luxurious aldehydes, punchy green notes, and stately bergamot. But the carnation is rough while pretty and the dash of cinnamon is intense. You can vaguely detect a lovely violet, and clearly experience the powerful orris root, jasmine, ylang ylang, rose and geranium. And into the drydown the fragrance calms down and benzoin, oakmoss and a definite vetiver are present. 

It’s decadent, very 70’s and perhaps a bit like a more expensive and elegant version of Cachet by Prince Matchabelli. But it also has the subtlety and beauty of other classics into the drydown like Mitsouko and Miss Dior. 

Nose: Guy Robert 

Top notes:  aldehydes, orange, fruity notes, patchouli, green notes and bergamot.  Middle notes: carnation, tuberose, cinnamon, violet, orris root, jasmine, ylang-ylang, rose and geranium; Base notes: musk, patchouli, benzoin, vanilla, oakmoss, vetiver and styrax.

Dolce Vita

A sweet, lovely lily flanked by magnolia and rose open Dolce Vita (Dior 1994).  Flirtatious peach and apricot are warmed by cinnamon and a gentle sandalwood and vanilla.  This scent is wild romance in the same vein as Rochas Femme or Amarige – spicy, enticing beauty.

Top notes: lily, magnolia and rose.  Middle notes: peach, apricot and cinnamon.  Base notes: sandal, heliotrope and vanilla.

Noses:  Pierre Bourdon and Maurice Roger



Bright, blooming and luminous florals delight in the opening of J’Adore (Dior 1999).  It’s pear, peach, plum and citrus in a fluid warmth that is both uplifting and playful.  A bit reminiscent of Chamade it has a soft sultry loveliness that is both mesmerizing and prone to induce melancholy upon its departure…  This a fragrance meant to be worn by those who do not wish to be soon forgotten.

Top notes: melon, magnolia, peach, pear, mandarine orange, and bergamot.  Middle notes: tuberose, plum, violet, lily-of-the-valley, jasmine, rose, orchid, and freesia.  Base notes: blackberry, cedar, musk and vanilla.

Nose: Calice Becker

So…  this blog has been a mess and I apologize for that.  I have been distracted by deaths, illnesses, and sleepless nights…  It’s been an interesting last couple of weeks to say the least.

But… life goes on, time goes on and that’s good thing.

So on we go…

Miss Dior Blooming Bouquet


At the start, the family resemblance between Miss Dior Blooming Bouquet (Dior 2014) and Miss Dior Cherie is noteworthy, but as the fragrance continues the note of mandarin becomes perhaps most original in its juicy zest.  Where Miss Dior Cherie was a bit smoky, playful and nearly naughty, Blooming Bouquet is delicate, clean and indeed evocative of… a blooming bouquet. One might wear Miss Dior or Miss Dior Cherie to a wedding, but it’s all but certain Blooming Bouquet would be absolutely appropriate.  The pretty peony, gentle peach and subtle apricot might even remind one of crisp Champagne.  It’s light, fresh, a little sweet and very pretty.

Top note: Sicilian mandarin.  Middle notes: pink peony, damask rose, peach and apricot. Base note: white musk.

Nose: Francois Demachy




Vintage Diorissimo (Dior 1956) is lily-of-the-valley done to perfection. It’s strong, very elegant and combined with a fresh, authentic lilac that blossoms as the scent progresses, it’s also wildly romantic. Diorissimo is an exquisite floral fragrance that is infinitely springlike, with a chilled glamour. Even for someone who may never particularly like muguet it’s hard to truly deny the genuine loveliness of Diorissimo…

Top notes: bergamot and green leaves. Middle notes: boronia, jasmine, lilac, lily, Rosemary, Amaryllis, ylang-ylang, and lily-of-the-valley. Base notes: civet and sandalwood.

Hypnotic Poison


Hypnotic Poison (Dior 1998) is spicy, sensual and modern.  It’s quite amazing actually…  It’s fresh and clean, yet warm, enveloping and sweet.  There’s also a delightful sharpness that melts into a hot, fascinating almond glow in the drydown.  I quite like it…

Top notes: apricot, plum and coconut.  Middle notes: tuberose, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, rose, Brazilian rosewood, and caraway.  Base notes: sandalwood, almond, vanilla and musk.

Yesterday was lovely.  After a family memorial on Saturday and a difficult last week I was fortunate enough to spend yesterday hiking through a forest and on bluffs overlooking the Puget Sound with my first cousin, his wonderful wife, their great little son, my husband and a good friend of my cousin’s from college.  It was absolutely delightful to spend time with them all.  They’re very loving, charming and authentic people.

When we walked through the forest there was one spot that had this minty, mossy green scent.  It’s so different than what you’d find in Minnesota.  It was romantic, elegant and a very pleasant discovery.  I love being outside in nature out here.

More on Wednesday, as usual…  Sorry about last week.

Miss Dior

2014-12-10 20.04.45A while back I attempted reconstituting several fragrances.  One of them was a vintage bottle of Christian Dior, Miss Dior (Dior 1947).  I’m guessing that the bottle was presumably Mid-Century, and although there was a decent amount Miss Dior left in the bottle it had turned into a gummy, thick sludge.

Thankfully, my experiment seems to have worked.  Today I’m wearing the reconstituted Miss Dior and it smells like the slightly edgy, green, floral vintage chypre that it was intended to be.  And, it’s important to note that while it shares a similar name to it’s descendant, Miss Dior Chérie, they are wildly different scents.

There’s something quite remarkable about vintage Miss Dior in it’s ability to capture the loveliness of a bygone era.  It strikes me as being reminiscent of several famous film stars of the 1940’s, the decade it was launched in. There’s the earthy, intelligent, and refined beauty of Katherine Hepburn, or the breezy sophistication of Lauren Bacall. I could easily see Ingrid Bergman wearing Miss Dior, especially with the base note of leather…

Top notes are listed as: galbanum, gardenia, aldehydes, clary sage and bergamot. Middle notes are: carnation, iris, orris root, jasmine, neroli, lily-of-the-valley, rose and narcissus.  With, base notes of: labdanum, leather, sandalwood, amber, patchouli, oakmoss and vetiver.

2014-12-14 21.26.12 (2)

This should be a somewhat stressful, but hopeful week.  One of my parents is considering retiring and may make the final decision this week.  I sincerely hope they do decide to retire, because it would mean a lot more time for my son to spend with them.  I’m also working with a new hire at work this week to train her in. I’ll be a little stretched to try to find ways to explain our work culture to her since she seems to have definite ways she prefers to do things… Sigh. 

Until Wednesday…  🙂