Category Archives: Old Noses

Platine (Dana 1939) is filled with extraordinarily earthy aldehydes. Intriguingly, the base notes of ambergris, patchouli, orris and eventually oak moss are also bold, sensual and totally present from start to finish. The lily of the valley, vetiver and cypress seem to emerge after the start, followed by ylang ylang, jasmine, and orange blossom.

Truly, Platine is like an elegant vintage mink. It’s difficult to wear easily, especially for day, but possible.

Into the later drydown wet earth patchouli meets a hint of narcissus, citrus and other florals in a springlike background. But it’s the heady base and rocky aldehydes that are bravest and most dominant in this one.

Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, jonquil and narcissus.  Middle notes: orange blossom, lily of the valley, ylang ylang, jasmine, iris, tuberose and Bulgarian rose.  Base notes: ambergris, musk, patchouli, juniper, cypress, orris, vetiver, sandalwood, oak moss and styrax

 

Sultry, sexy, yet airy (and eventually even a bit soapy), Matin Clair (Brajan 1925) smells like a fated romance in perfume form.   My small bottle of it is from the 1920’s and it was discontinued in the 1930’s (click link above for more information), but I don’t have an exact list of notes…  My best guess is that it would be classified as a white floral, aldehydic, balsamic, powdery, aromatic, very 1920’s scent with likely notes of: aldehydes, lily-of-the-valley, peach (??), ylang ylang, galbanum (?), jasmine, iris, rose, honeysuckle (maybe?), violet, bergamot, geranium (??), sandalwood, tonka bean, amber, benzion, styrax (??), opoponax, possibly incense, maybe civet  and vanilla?  There are very likely notes I missed and/or have wrong but that’s my estimation…   It’s a sublime fragrance, and reminds me a great deal of fragrances from both Lanvin and later Balmain.