Un Chercher (Repost)

This is a wild fragrance (Signature Fragrances 2014). But it’s wild and…blue. Sort of like super chilled whisky.

The lemon and lavender are menthol-like in an almost eucalyptus sort of way but, also, they’re exaggerated versions of themselves…

At any rate, this fragrance, classified as a men’s fragrance, is in fact quite gentlemanly. Very polite in fact. Even when the oud and meets the lusty musk it all stays office appropriate . Also, the airy and herbal charm of the lemon (flanked by an intelligent bergamot) overtakes everything and refuses to be anything but sublimely fresh, classic and…nice.

I don’t usually wear men’s fragrances but this is one I may have to consider.

Top notes: lemon, bergamot and lavender. Middle notes: sandalwood, patchouli snd agarwood. Base notes: musk and amber.

Feminin Pluriel (Repost)

Soapy florals mix with green and spicy patchouli leaf (Maison Francis Kurkdjian 2014).  There’s a lyrical, silvery iris and a bouquet of other lovely florals chilled by a proper vetiver. And yet, the light provided by the patchouli leaf warms the room.  

Notes: iris, violet, rose, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, orange blossom, vetiver and Indonesian patchouli leaf.  

Nose: Francis Kurkdjian 

Après l’Ondée 1950’s parfum (new fragrance post)

Will I buy a bottle of Elegant Schwan 06? Mm… It’s unclear. Will I buy a bottle of vintage Après l’Ondée? Yes!

Licorice? How in the world did Guerlain make licorice smell so elegant?! It’s uncanny.

I mean, licorice is yummy and all but it’s licorice.

Anyway, vintage Après l’Ondée is Guerlain at its best. It’s lacquered carnation and a melancholy but spicy rose with a somewhat masculine styrax. And overall it’s vanillic, otherworldly, poignant olfactory genius. I’m in awe.

Neroli? Orris? Sure. We’ve all smelled these notes before. But golly. This is a masterpiece.

Even if into the mid drydown Après l’Ondée is almost too powdery and almost a bit medicinal (or reminiscent of liquid pink public washroom soap ha!) and Eleganter Schwan, for example, has an objectively prettier and more charming drydown…Après l’Ondée is superior. Yup. I said it. Sorry… It’s just that it’s just that darn good. The “flaws” (if there are any) are only fascinating.

I almost need a bottle.

Top notes: Cassia, neroli, anise, bergamot and lemon. Middle notes: Orris root, rose, violet, vetiver, ylang-ylang, sandalwood, carnation, jasmine and mimosa. Base notes: Vanilla, benzoin, styrax, musk, heliotrope, amber and iris.

Nose: Jacques Guerlain

Eleganter Schwan 06 (new fragrance post)

Oh my…

Krigler is one of my favorite houses. I have yet to visit their NYC store but I’d like to sooner than later.

Anyway, I’m determined to add a bottle or two more Krigler to my collection. I think this will be the niche house I choose for the places I had allocated on my ultimate perfume collection shopping list. It’s just such a very beautiful, historic, elegant and romantic house.

Elegant Schwan 06, which debuted for the second time in 2017, was an Albert Krigler original fragrance from the early 20th Century discontinued by the 1920’s. As it says on their website: “Krigler drew inspiration from Neuschwanstein Castle, naming it after the castle’s special trademark, the swan. The floral German rose accent combined with a warm sandalwood note is reminiscent of the gardens of the romantic and iconic castle.

Doesn’t that sound wonderful?!

Neuschwanstein Castle, located in SW Bavaria, Germany (via Google Images)

Well…what can I say? It’s exquisite.

Except…it’s also extremely similar to Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire. But where LPRN is a pair of elegant white jeans from GAP Eleganter Schwan 06 is the pair of white jeans by Saint Laurent which are essentially almost the same thing but better.

…And that’s confusing too because this supposedly was from the early 1900’s. So? *laughing* Who copied who? Coincidence?

But…where LPRN is early 21st Century sass (with a note of cherry). Eleganter Schwan is indeed a more opulent golden goddess of long ago… It is really lovely.

Will I buy a bottle? Gosh, I don’t know. It’s genuinely expensive at around $900.00. I have a few on my list that lean in that direction but that’s a lot for the (albeit) total goddess version of a recent Guerlain classic I already own. *shrug* But, at the same time, the pear note sings an aria in the drydown and it is beautifully heartbreaking and epic.

We’ll see…

Notes: Rose, sandalwood, pear, iris, lime, vanilla, and patchouli.

(Photo of castle from Google Images)

Fleurs de Rocaille (Repost)

In vintage Fleurs de Rocaille (Caron (1934) the spicy and earthy lily-of-the-valley is kind of atypical (from my humble experience)…but Fleur de Rocaille manages it brilliantly of course. And in fact while most people smell a wild and lovely jasmine as the main floral note I detect a strong lily. Carnation, rose and ylang ylang are also notable.

But there are aldehydes too. And there are other soapy, sweet florals and base notes with a particularly pretty sandalwood and amber.

This fizzy, sexy, and unique fragrance is very memorable.

Nose: Ernest Daltroff

Top notes: palisander, bergamot, gardenia and violet.   Middle notes: orris root, jasmine, narcissus, rose, carnation, lily-of-the-valley, ylang-ylang, lilac, mimosa and iris.  Base notes: amber, sandalwood, musk and cedar. 

Crêpe de Chine (Repost)

2015-07-18 17.15.37 (2)

Crêpe de Chine (F. Millot 1925) was made with rare Grasse jasmine and would be much too expensive to make today.   It’s comprised of vintage florals that are delicate and lovely set in a warm, raucous background.  Dominant notes in the drydown are perhaps patchouli and leather.  

Crêpe de Chine is a balance between wild allure and sweet restraint, as per usual.

Top notes: lemon, bergamot, neroli, and orange.  Middle notes: jasmine, rose, lilac, ylang ylang, and carnation.  Base notes: oak moss vetiver, benzoin, labdanum, patchouli, musk, and leather.  

Sorry this post was left in disrepair for so long.  I had a serious emergency with my son and I left this blog to its own devices…


He’s doing well and I’m back.  If you’re still reading despite my poorly edited work and shoddy posts, thank you!

Potpourri (Repost)

With an opening that’s intensely spicy, warm and sweet, Potpourri (Prince Matchabelli 1940) is beautifully vintage. To my nose this is mostly a polite but not at all boring violet, ylang ylang, hyacinth, cloves and rich musk scent… Although a woody benzoin is one of those sort of notes that is dominant but manages to do so in the background and so it’s easy to underestimate its significance at first. Into the drydown it emerges in a way reminiscent of someone smoking a pipe with the vanillic tobacco of a bygone era.

At any rate, this is another one of those fragrances that informs us of the era it came from. It’s deceptively simple at first glance but in reality quite complex.

Top notes: lemon, citruses, hyacinth.  Middle notes: ylang ylang, lilac, rose, violet, cloves and spicy notes.  Base notes: musk, benzoin, vanilla, and woody notes. 

Stradivari (Repost)

A spicy orris mixes with florals and oakmoss right at the outset of Stradivari (Prince Matchabelli 1950). This bold, sensual and intoxicating scent is both demure and alluring all at once. Perfect for day and yet so frothy, rich and mysterious that it hints constantly at the dim lights and shadows of night. It’s a great example of a smoky, leathery and yet truly prim green, woody floral that projected an aura of pristine innocence while concealing something quite the opposite…

However, the caveat should be noted that I suspect only in spring, very early summer, fall or winter weather could this contradiction happen. In other words, I imagine in hot weather Stradivari would bloom in such a way that it would only be a night scent.

At any rate, it’s a bit sublime. 

Prétexte (Repost)

Prétexte (Lanvin 1937) starts off bright and pretty with romantic and sublime florals. A delicate iris is dramatic and yet balanced by the castoreum and ladylike patchouli.

Rose, sweet civet and elegant oakmoss are spacious and rather grand as they stare off into a light and lush green expanse. And then comes vanillic sandalwood with its soft, almond-like gentility. Matter of fact, vintage Pretexte is reminiscent of L’Heure Bleue in that regard…

Of course, through it all vetiver and leather are crisp and refreshingly calm. And in the late drydown it becomes dominated by a smoky, musky, burning incense.

This is a masterpiece.

Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot and narcissus.   Middle notes: hay, rose, carnation, hawthorn, opoponax and iris.  Base notes: leather, castoreum, patchouli, rosewood, ambergris, sandalwood, tonka, vetiver, civet, oakmoss

Aqua Allegoria Mandarine Basilic (Repost)


A Guerlinade cocktail of green tea, soothing ivy and stunning citrus opens Mandarine Basilic (Guerlain 2007).  But at the heart the spotlight belongs to a supple, dreamy, and almost painfully lovely mandarine orange enshrined by a delicate basil.

There are also noticeable but faint traces of peony, a particularly pretty and clear chamomile and into the drydown a lightly sweet and well-mannered sandalwood.

Mandarine Basilic is clean, fresh and pretty without any shrillness or harsh edges. Perfect for a sunny weekend in early July…

Top notes: green tea, bitter orange, orange blossom, ivy, and clementine.  Middle notes: mandarine orange, basil, peony, and chamomile.  Base notes:  sandalwood and amber.  

Nose: Marie Salamagne